<a target="_blank" href="http://www.casalever.com/">Casa Lever</a> 

390 Park Avenue

New York, NY 10022

(212) 888-2700

This was my first dinner at Casa Lever, the new
Italian-inspired reincarnation of the former Lever House. The long, narrow
dining space is nicely done, with Andy Warhol paintings that add a dash of
color and brightness. The only negative is that the tables are tightly spaced
and the room can get noisy.

Casa Lever’s menu mostly features classics from the northern
Italian kitchen presented in modern, updated interpretations that stay faithful
to the originals. My veal courses were beautifully prepared. The vitello
tonnato was delicious, while the breaded veal cutlet Milanese was a tasty
rendition of this classic Italian comfort dish.

The wine list is excellent and a significant, welcome
upgrade from the rather pedestrian selection offered at Casa Lever’s sister
Sant’Ambroeus restaurants. Readers will find plenty of the familiar names in
Italian wine – and their accompanying high prices – but there are also plenty
of gems available from Italy’s lesser known regions that can be had for
reasonable amounts considering the neighborhood. I am sure I will be back to
explore some of the other choices on the menu and check in on a several bottles
I don’t often see on New York City wine lists.

Marion’s 2004
Valpolicella Superiore, from an important vintage in Veneto, was flat-out
great. It showed superb intensity, endless layers of perfumed, seductive fruit
and fabulous overall balance, well surpassing the level of virtually all other
Valpolicellas in 2004. This bottle far exceeded expectations and my original 89
point score in The Wine Advocate. It reminded me I need to drink proprietor
Stefano Campatelli’s wines more often!

The 2005 Barbaresco
Albesani from Cantina del Pino
was even more impressive. It fully lived up to its pedigree and the lofty
rating I bestowed upon it last year. The south-facing Albesani vineyard did
particularly well in 2005, as evidenced by this big, muscular Barbaresco. The
Albesani needed quite a bit of time to open up in the glass, but was ultimately
a better match for our food than the Marion. It was truly spectacular, though
years away from peak.&nbsp;

Food:

Vitello Tonnato; thinly sliced slow roasted veal, tuna &amp;
caper sauce

Milanese; traditional breaded veal Milanes&nbsp;

Wine:

2004&nbsp;&nbsp; Marion
Valpolicella Superiore&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 93

2005&nbsp;&nbsp; Cantina del Pino
Barbaresco Albesani&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 95[Picture and credit: Casa Lever, New York]--Antonio Galloni

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