<a target="_blank" href="https://64goodgestreet.co.uk/">64
Goodge Street</a>

64 Goodge StreetLondon&nbsp;W1T 4NF
Phone: 0203 747 6364

Nearest tube: Goodge Street (obviously)

BY NEAL MARTIN |&nbsp;SEPTEMBER 15, 2023The Food:

Scallops,
lentils &amp; beurre blanc

Half a
Basque chicken with girolles, tarragon &amp; Savagnin (for 2)

Gâteau Marjolaine: Meringue, chocolate ganache &amp; hazelnut

The Wines:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>2018
 Domaine des Carlines Côte de Jura La Vouivre</td>
 <td>87</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>2014 Domaine Guyon Côteaux
 Bourguignons Les Glapignys&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
 <td>89</td>
 </tr></tbody></table> Restaurants
named after their address…could that be due to a lack of inspiration? Instead,
I like to think that it is a considerate gesture. No need to look up the
address – you already have it. Of course, this meant that I sauntered straight
past the front door of 64 Goodge Street since I presumed to know where Goodge
Street is. Logically, it is where Goodge Street tube station is located, right?
Well, now I know that Goodge Street tube station is, in fact, located on
Tottenham Court Road. I guess the tube station down the road had already nabbed
that name. Now enlightened about which thoroughfare is Goodge Street, I made my
way back for a much-needed supper after a day marred by sad news that morning. Opportunity
to raise a glass to a departed friend. <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1694788222301-64+-+kitchen+%281%29.jpg">The 64 Goodge Street kichen 

64
Goodge Street is part of the growing portfolio of London restaurants under the
Woodland Restaurant Group, co-founded by Will Lander, that includes Quality
Chop House, Clipstone, Portland and Emilia. Lander being the son of Jancis
Robinson, it is no surprise that all feature strong wine lists. Lander’s latest
addition opened in early August 2023, and like all his restaurants, it enjoys a
very central location in Fitzrovia, in what was once a travel agency. It’s not
a large restaurant. There is a ground floor with around 30 covers, a
brightly-lit open kitchen at the far end and a basement that houses a swanky
private room. The vibe is upmarket bistro, with dark olive-painted walls and
low lighting, ensuring the interior feels cozy and lived-in.

Quoting
directly from their website, 64 Goodge Street is “French cooking from an
outsider’s perspective.” The head chef is Stuart Andrew, who started out at
Portland eight years ago. It’s a straightforward à la carte menu with five or
six choices per course, perhaps along the lines of <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-noble-rot-mayfair-london-uk-jun-2023">Noble
Rot</a> or <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-wild-flor-brighton-uk-nov-2022">Wild
Flor</a>. Of all Landers’ restaurants, I probably like Andrew’s menu the most.
It’s unfussy, nothing flashy or pretentious, but every dish is very well
executed and hearty without being excessively rich. Execution is a facet of
gastronomy that I have become sensitive to since spending time in Japan, where
execution is paramount. I couldn’t fault the dishes.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1694788284037-64+-+scallops_copy.jpg">Scallops, lentils &amp; beurre blanc

I
commenced with two scallops served with lentils and a beurre blanc. This was a
delicious starter. The scallops were perfectly cooked, with just the right
consistency, and the beurre blanc lent a little bite and frisson. The balance
here was just right.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1694788317289-64+chicken+%281%29.jpg">Half a Basque chicken with girolles, tarragon &amp; Savagnin (for 2) 

Together
with my dining partners (one entering his final trimester…I’m glad he’s eating
well even before he’s born), we opted for the shared half-a-Basque chicken with
girolles, tarragon &amp; Savagnin. One is naturally drawn to comparisons with <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-noble-rot-soho-rotter-s-christmas-gutbuster-mar-2022">Noble
Rot Soho’s</a> signature dish. I think they are both wonderful. Here, the
chicken was moist and beautifully seasoned, the girolles reminding me that no
fungi tastes as good, and the tarragon and Savagnin lending a background
edginess to keep the dish on its tippy-toes. <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1694788352128-64+-+gateau+%281%29.jpg">Gâteau Marjolaine: Meringue, chocolate ganache &amp; hazelnutAs good as those two were, the dish I really fell in love with was the dessert: the Gâteau Marjolaine, layers of meringue, chocolate ganache &amp; hazelnut. This was a guilty pleasure, the hazelnuts sharp in flavor and offsetting the sweetness of the meringue (any more might have unbalanced the dish). It was perfectly prepared and comes highly recommended. The
wine list is excellent, as I expected, with a smattering of mature bottles,
thankfully without gouging mark-ups and many wines available by either glass or
carafe, the latter always helpful when, like me, I was not in the mood for
over-indulging. There is a clear preference for Burgundy over Bordeaux with
plenty of choices, no blue-chips growers, rather names with good reputations.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1694788390193-64+-+jura+wine+%281%29.jpg">The
sommelier recommended the 2018 Côte de Jura La Vouivre from Domaine
des Carlines, and after a sip, I ordered a glass. This is one of those
wines that I really tried my best to enjoy. The oxidative element hovers in the
background on the nose, but I could live with that as the palate displayed
freshness and an appealing nutty/smoky quality. As time went on, that oxidation
began to grow on confidence and started to impede upon the flavors of my
chicken. Maybe I just wasn’t in the mood. Instead, I switched to a 2014
Côteaux Bourguignons Les Glapignys from Domaine Guyon. This is a
delicious Chardonnay/Pinot Blanc blend with pretty grapefruit, lime and orange
pith scents on the nose. The palate is not complex yet is well balanced with
commendable acidity, just a sliver of peachiness towards the finish. Unlike the
Côte de Jura, it knows its place on the dinner table – to complement the food,
not quarrel with it. 

Overall,
64 Goodge Street is a welcome addition to the capital’s dynamic dining scene.
Prices are reasonable, and the décor is tasteful and classy. I always like an
open kitchen, and the service is absolutely top-notch. A central location and
tempting wine list mean that oenophiles venturing to London will enjoy its take
on Gallic cuisine. Plus, of course, no need to look up the address.© 2023, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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