<a target="_blank" href="https://www.parcelles-paris.fr/en/">Parcelles</a>

13 rue Chapon

75003 Paris, France

+33 (0)1 43 37 91 64
BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 28, 2025 The Food:

Grilled leeks; vadouvan sabayon, olives, citrus peel, dried
breadcrumbs

Roasted Roscoff scallops; winter squash, smoked fish foam
sauce

Homemade gnocchi; sage butter sauce, fried sage leaves

Cabbage stuffed with pork; foie gras, pistachio, cognac,
beef bouillon

Sainte-Nectaire; fig jam

The Wine:

2020 Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée - 91

Vinous readers spending time in Paris will want to book a
table at Parcelles. This small bistro/wine bar offers refined cuisine and a
superb list. On this cold yet sunny winter day, the cozy, retro dining room is
drenched with light, creating a perfect Parisian atmosphere for a relaxed
lunch. 

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743174385747-VT_leeks.jpg">Grilled leeks; vadouvan sabayon, olives, citrus peel,
dried breadcrumbs.

Parcelles offers a small menu of what is best described as
elevated bistro food. I prefer small menus, as they are a sign of focus. Guests
with specific dietary requirements should check out the menu before booking a
table. The list is extensive, with plenty of choices. There aren’t too many
deals; those days increasingly belong to the past. Service is competent but
also not a highlight, at least not on this day. That said, I have a great deal
of sympathy for anyone who works in the restaurant industry, as I have done
those jobs myself and I know how hard they are. 

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743174441559-VT_Scallops.jpg">Roasted Roscoff scallops; winter squash, smoked fish foam
sauce.

Our starters are delicious. I admit I sometimes struggle
with restaurants in France, as the cooking can be so heavy. At Parcelles,
dishes are very much traditional in inspiration, with contemporary twists. Sauces
are deeply flavored yet light. Grilled leeks with vadouvan sabayon is a perfect
example. The sabayon, with its curry inflections, is an ideal complement to
charred notes in the leeks and not overly heavy or dominant. Roscoff scallops,
served with a smoked fish foam sauce, are on point.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743174465660-VT_gnocchi.jpg">Homemade gnocchi; sage butter sauce, fried sage leaves.

Homemade gnocchi with sage butter sauce and fried sage
leaves is another fine, filling winter dish, maybe not quite at the level of
the others, but still very fine. Italy meets France. Cabbage stuffed with pork
and foie gras is superb. What a dish. Everything works. This is the Parcelles
kitchen at its best. The cabbage is perfectly cooked, and the stuffing is well
seasoned. A dash of beef bouillon adds dimension and complexity while also
refreshing the palate. I would happily return to Parcelles just to have this
again. 

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743174535482-VT_chou.jpg">Cabbage stuffed with pork; foie gras, pistachio, cognac,
beef bouillon.

In keeping with the style of the vintage, the 2020
Vosne-Romanée from Mugneret-Gibourg is a rich, heady Burgundy, perhaps a
bit big on its own, but very delicious on a cold winter day. Black cherry,
spice, mocha and dried flowers all stain the palate. Dark and enveloping, with
notable intensity, the Vosne-Romanée is a gorgeous village-level offering from
this renowned domaine. It’s a perfect lunch wine, not too serious, but with
enough substance to be interesting. We polish the bottle off rather quickly, always
the most important verdict of all.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743174557767-VTMar282025_wine.jpg">Unfortunately, we don’t have time for dessert, but there is
no way we are passing up cheese. Sainte-Nectaire, served with fig jam, is the
perfect conclusion to this fine winter lunch. 

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1743174508426-VT-cheese.jpg">Sainte-Nectaire; fig jam. 

Parcelles is highly recommended. It’s a small restaurant, so
reservations are essential.

&nbsp;© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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