&nbsp;

<a target="_blank" href="https://www.crowsnestmtk.com/">The Crow's Nest</a><a target="_blank" href="https://www.crowsnestmtk.com/">

</a>4 Old West Lake Drive

Montauk, NY 11954

Tel. +1 631 668-2077BY ANTONIO GALLONI |&nbsp;SEPTEMBER 06, 2024

The Food:

Half-Dozen Oysters on the Half Shell; Kosher Mignonette,
Cocktail Sauce

Montauk Tuna Tartare; Black Caramel, Cucumber, Radish,
Smoked Mango, Avocado, Aleppo Pepper, Chive

Dayboat Scallops; Fregola Sarda Risotto, Foraged Mushroom,
Local Asparagus, Chive

Swordfish Kebab; Mango Marinade, Caramelized Onion, Raz el
Hanout

Cardamom Sesame Sundae; Vanilla Gelato, Tahini Caramel,
Chocolate Cardamom, Maple Chili Pecan, Whipped Cream

The Wine:

2022 Occhipinti Bianco SP 68 &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 90&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;2024-2028

With its gorgeous setting, relaxed outdoor dining and
fabulous menu, the Crow's Nest is one of the best places to eat in the
Hamptons. The restaurant is located on a sprawling property on the tranquil
shores of Lake Montauk. Guests can choose from an extensive menu that includes
a raw bar plus a tempting selection of appetizers, salads, mains and desserts.
Montauk fish and shellfish feature heavily in cuisines that draw on American,
Italian, Middle Eastern and North African influences. 

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1725648127111-IMG_5567.jpg">

Half-Dozen Oysters on the Half Shell; Kosher Mignonette,
Cocktail Sauce

A half-dozen oysters feels obligatory on this warm summer
evening. We should have ordered more. The tuna tartare is served with unusual
accompaniments like smoked mango that elevate the dish beyond more standard
versions. 

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1725648174364-IMG_5564.jpg">

Montauk Tuna Tartare; Black Caramel, Cucumber, Radish,
Smoked Mango, Avocado, Aleppo Pepper, Chive

The wine program is creative and nicely curated. There’s a
strong focus on artisanal estates that follow sustainable vineyard practices.
It’s a pretty eccentric list, especially for diners who are only moderately
interested in wine. The cocktail and spirits program strikes me as more fun, so
I am not surprised to see most guests choosing drinks over wine. Occhipinti’s
2022 Bianco SP 68 is 60% Moscato di Alessandria and 40% Albanello done with
skin contact and aged in cement. It offers a compelling mix of exotic aromatics,
orchard fruit and dried flowers, with plenty of phenolic structure to back it
all up. It’s a delicious and intriguing bottle, although clearly a wine for the
adventurous oenophile.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1725648194519-IMG_5575.jpg">

Dayboat Scallops; Fregola Sarda Risotto, Foraged
Mushroom, Local Asparagus, Chive

Dinner kicks into high gear with our mains. The scallops are
outstanding, full of flavor and perfectly cooked, but everything on the plate
is delicious. I usually won’t order risotto of any kind in the United States
(call me a snob if you like), but the Crow’s Nest version is fabulous. Kebabs
are a specialty here. The swordfish version is bold, deeply flavored and an
absolute delight. Although we did not have it on this occasion, I also adore
the lobster tagliatelle here. I do not have a huge sweet tooth, but when it comes
to ice cream, all bets are off. The cardamom sesame sundae is a fine conclusion
to this dinner.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1725648219098-IMG_5584.jpg">

Swordfish Kebab; Mango Marinade, Caramelized Onion, Raz
el Hanout

The only thing I don’t like about The Crow’s Nest is the
no-reservations policy. A quiet exception is made for guests who are staying at
the inn on the property. Sure, you can show up at 4:30pm for dinner, as many
do, and likely snag a table without waiting. If there is a wait, grabbing a
drink at the beach bar and watching the sunset is an option. 

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1725648241664-IMG_5599.jpg">

I fully sympathize with the challenges of restaurant
economics and the increasing frequency of no-shows. Even so, in my view, a
walk-ins only policy is aggressively anti-consumer. I suggest going to The
Crow’s Nest right after July 4th, one of the rare periods between Memorial Day
and Labor Day when things can be quiet in the Hamptons. It’s worth the trip.

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1725648307089-IMG_5611.jpg">

Cardamom Sesame Sundae; Vanilla Gelato, Tahini Caramel,
Chocolate Cardamom, Maple Chili Pecan, Whipped Cream

© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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