<a target="_blank">Del Posto Ristorante</a> 

85 10th Ave,

New York, NY 10011

Tel (212) 497-8090

This incredible dinner was organized around two themes; an
in-depth look at several bottlings of the 1964 Dom Pérignon and a survey of
Bruno Giacosa’s 1989s and 1990s, with a few bottles added for further
perspective. Executive Chef Mark Ladner prepared a fabulous menu to go with our
wines…in fact, the food was so delicious and the wines so brilliant that we
added a couple of extra savory courses after the dinner had actually ended! All
three pastas were among the highlights of this menu, but it was the Wood
Grilled Lobster with Gnocchetti Sardi that stole the show. It was a superbly
executed, rich dish that paired exquisitely with the wines. The Lobster is
worth a visit on its own. Service was top-notch. Wine Director Henry Davar and
his team did a fabulous job taking care of our ever-expanding array of bottles.

We started with two pristine magnums of Henriot’s Cuvée
des Enchanteleurs, which were a treat to taste. The 1959 was a touch slender, but compensated for that with a silky
mousse and warm, toasty flavors. Hints of truffle lingered on the finish. The 1976 was rounder and more generous in
its up-front fruit, but lacked the complexity and nuance of the 1959. Both
bottles were delicious from the start, but neither offered as much evolution in
the glass as I had hoped. These were recent re-releases from Henriot’s cellars.

What can I say about the opportunity to sample six different
bottlings of Dom Pérignon other than it was an otherworldly experience?&nbsp; I loved the first 1964 Dom Pérignon Œnothèque we tasted, a 2004 release. The mousse
was imperceptibly fine and elegant, with pretty notes of smoke and hazelnuts
that came together with remarkable harmony. Another of my favorites was the 1964 Œnothèque (capsule label, believed
to be a late 1990s/early 2000s release).
This vivid, richly-textured Champagne offered incredible delineation in a
boisterous, extroverted style for a wine of this era. It was fabulous. The 1964 Dom Pérignon (Recently Disgorged
label, believed to be an early 1990s
release) was another of the more finessed, subtle wines in this group. The 1964 Dom Pérignon (foil capsule,
believed to be a 1970s/1980s release)
and 1964 Dom Pérignon (plastic
capsule, believed to be an original
release) were both rather forward and showed oxidative qualities that were
most appreciated by tasters who enjoy mature, fully resolved Champagnes. The 1964 Dom Pérignon (magnum, believed to be a 1970s
release) was served later in the evening, after the first five 1964 Dom
Pérignons. In many ways, the best was saved for last, as this profound
Champagne delivered an incredible drinking experience. Hazelnuts, dried
apricots and spices lingered on the eternal finish.

Domaine Leflaive’s
1982 Bâtard-Montrachet, tasted from magnum,
was simply exquisite. Layers of rich, unctuous fruit melded seamlessly into
persistent minerally notes in a beautiful, textured fabric of remarkable grace.
The long, sublime finish alone was majestic. This magnum was quite a bit
fresher than the same wine tasted from standard 750-ml bottle a few weeks
prior.

A complete line-up of Bruno Giacosa’s 1989 and 1990 Barolos
and Barbarescos was a privilege to taste, particularly as virtually every bottle
was as perfect as one can reasonably hope for. I slightly preferred the 1990s
for their greater consistency across the board, but there was little question
none of those wines, as brilliant as they were, matched the peaks of the 1989s.
Some tasters preferred the 1989 vintage, but without exception those tasters
gave greater weight to the brilliance of the best 1989s over the consistency of
the 1990s, which was essentially splitting hairs at this level. It was
incredible to taste all of these Barolos and Barbarescos side by side in a
small group setting that allowed for generous pours and plenty of time to
evaluate each of the wines. I have been fortunate to taste all of these wines
on multiple occasions recently, and readers will find complete, formal notes as
well as much more detail on these two great Piedmontese vintages <a target="_blank" href="http://vinousmedia.com/articles/32">here</a>.

Giacosa’s 1989s
were fantastic. The 1989 Barolo Riserva
Collina Rionda was mind-blowingly perfect as it nearly always is. This remains
one of the most brilliant wines ever made, in any region. While the Rionda
showed a more delicate side of Serralunga, the 1989 Barolo Riserva Falletto was decidedly more virile in its
expression. It, too, was fabulous. I have always considered Giacosa’s 1989 Barolo Villero as a poor
man’s Rionda, as well-stored bottles can be wonderful, which this one was.
Unfortunately we did not have a profound bottle of the 1989 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano, while the 1989 Barbaresco Gallina was pretty, but
somewhat rustic.

The fireworks really got going with Giacosa’s 1990s, as every bottle showed beautifully. The 1990 Barolo Riserva Falletto was among
the standouts of this flight. It remains a richly-textured, powerful Barolo
with several decades of life ahead of it! The 1990 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano was monumental. The wine’s
inner perfume and sweetness were just superb. The 1990 Barbaresco Riserva was another of the standouts. This is one
of the rare gems in the Giacosa cannon as the lack of vineyard designation has
caused the wine to fly under the radar for many years. On this night it was an
imposing, powerful Barbaresco loaded with fruit and tons of Neive personality.
I was floored by the 1990 Barbaresco
Riserva Asili, which emerged from the glass with a haunting bouquet that
reminded me of some of the finest Musignys. The 1990 Barolo Villero was round, sweet harmonious and hugely
enjoyable. Giacosa’s 1990 Barbaresco
Gallina was another of the overachievers, with gorgeous fruit and a
seamless, caressing personality. The only disappointment in this flight was the
1990 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda,
a wine that has never been satisfying, particularly within the context of
Giacosa’s Red Labels.

Giuseppe Mascarello’s
1989 Barolo Monprivato had no trouble keeping up with the previous wines,
as it was utterly breathtaking. Sadly, the 1990
Barolo Monprivato was a victim of poor storage. Luciano Sandrone’s 1989 and 1990 Barolo Cannubi Boschis were both brilliant, but quite different.
The 1989 showed off a classic,
layered profile of sweet, perfumed fruit, minerals and spices, while the 1990 was darker, richer and more
sumptuous, with a modern expression of texture and sweet scents of new French
oak that framed the fruit through to the long, elegant finish. Both bottles
were totally delicious.

We finished with a true rarity, the 1934 Lafite-Rothschild. Spice cake, prunes, licorice, leather and
menthol came together beautifully in the glass as this impeccable wine showed
off its pedigree and class. It was a great way to end a magical night.

Food:

Assaggi, Spuntini &amp; Snacks 

Matsutaki Mushrooms 

Pumpkin Cappellaci with Almond Milk, Black Truffle &amp;
Sage

Del Posto Agnolotti dal Plin with Parmigiano Reggiano

Garganelli Verdi al Ragù Bolognese

Beef Ribeye with Chicory Salad, Cesare’s Beans &amp; Tomato
Conserva

Artisan Cheeses

Spaghetti with Lobster

Wood Grilled Lobster with Gnocchetti Sardi &amp; Salicornia

Wine:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 1959
 </td>
 <td>
 Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs (magnum)
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1976
 </td>
 <td>
 Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs (magnum)
 </td>
 <td>
 91
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1964
 </td>
 <td>
 Moët &amp; Chandon Dom Pérignon Œnothèque (dark
 green/black label)
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1964
 </td>
 <td>
 Moët &amp; Chandon Dom Pérignon Œnothèque (capsule label)
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1964
 </td>
 <td>
 Moët &amp; Chandon Dom Pérignon (Recently Disgorged
 label)
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1964
 </td>
 <td>
 Moët &amp; Chandon Dom Pérignon (foil capsule)
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1964
 </td>
 <td>
 Moët &amp; Chandon Dom Pérignon (plastic capsule)
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1964
 </td>
 <td>
 Moët &amp; Chandon Dom Pérignon (magnum)
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1982
 </td>
 <td>
 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet (magnum)
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Gallina
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero
 </td>
 <td>
 90
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda
 </td>
 <td>
 100
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Gallina
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Giuseppe Mascarello &amp; Figli Barolo Monprivato
 </td>
 <td>
 98
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Giuseppe Mascarello &amp; Figli Barolo Monprivato
 </td>
 <td>
 ?
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1989
 </td>
 <td>
 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1990
 </td>
 <td>
 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis
 </td>
 <td>
 96
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 1934
 </td>
 <td>
 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild
 </td>
 <td>
 93
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>

&nbsp;--Antonio Galloni

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