<a target="_blank" href="https://moorhall.com/">Moor Hall</a>

Prescot Rd 

Aughton

Ormskirk L39 6RT

BY NEAL MARTIN |&nbsp;JANUARY 27, 2023The
Food:

Charcuterie,
black pudding with pickled gooseberry, “Crown Prince” (chorizo and egg)

Isle of
Skye langoustine with raspberry, radish and nasturtium

Cod roe
with chicken, chervil and caviar

Smoked
eel with fermented garlic and flowers

Louët-Feisser
oysters with white beetroot, dill and buttermilk

Paris
market carrots, Doddington cheese, chrysanthemum and sea buckthorn

Turnip
and crab, anise hyssop and sunflower seeds

Hereford
sirloin, barbecued celeriac, mustard and shallot

Isle of
Mull scallop with fermented grains, green tomato and cauliflower purée

Turbot
with Kuri squash, girolles, sea greens and Suquet sauce

Méracq
Guinea hen with beetroot, sweetcorn and white beans, ragout and whey onion

Ormskirk
gingerbread with roots and pine

Scarisbrick
blackberries with lemon verbena, begonia and ragstone cheese

Garden
apples and gooseberry, woodruff, birch sap and marigold mousse

Fermented
apricot with wild honey and puffed buckwheat

The Wines:

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>2016 Sadie
 Family Winery Skerpioen&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
 <td>95</td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>1970 Labégorce</td>
 <td>86</td>
 </tr></tbody></table> Lunch
at Moor Hall is the greatest meal I have enjoyed in my country of birth. Let’s
get that out of the way first. Flipping through my Rolodex of jaw-dropping feasts,
only two can compare, both in Spain, namely the late El Bulli and Martin
Berasategui in San Sebastien. Every dish at Moor Hall warranted a cavalcade of
superlatives. Every morsel cherished. Convinced I must have reached some gustatory
pinnacle, the next course waltzed onto the table and left me speechless. When
chef patron Mark Birchall is awarded a troisième étoile, then Moor Hall
is going to become impossible to book, so please don’t say I didn’t warn you. Go
book a table before reading the rest of this Vinous Table.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674834751326-moor+hall+exterior_copy.jpg">The Moor Hall exterior 

I had
wanted to eat at Moor Hall for two or three years. However, located a
three-hour drive from my home between Liverpool and Manchester, even without
the inevitable M6 traffic jam, Moor Hall isn’t somewhere I could simply visit
during the week and cab it home. It is definitely worth the journey to the
outskirts of the middle-of-nowhere, or in more helpful geographical terms,
around 20 minutes outside Liverpool on the featureless rural fringe of
Lancashire. As luck would have it, a close friend’s nuptials were due to take
place just a half-hour drive away, so as soon as I accepted his wedding invitation,
I booked a table for lunch the following day. Driving prohibited me from wanton
libation, but that was no huge loss since my senses had to work overtime relishing
the kaleidoscope of aromas, flavours, textures and combinations. In fact, it confirmed
my adage that the more complex the menu, the simpler the wine and vice versa.

Moor
Hall is a tranquil oasis sheltered from surrounding farmland by a copse of
trees. It’s not until entering its gates, just outside the village of Aughton,
that you realise that the Satnav is not on the blink and delivered you to a
restaurant twice-voted the best in the country by the National Restaurant
Awards, above The Fat Duck, Core and Gordon Ramsay. In fact, the five-acre grounds
accommodate not one but two starred restaurants. A second opened in a
converted barn adjacent to Moor Hall, christened without minimal inspiration, The
Barn, catering for more casual and less expensive dining. That did not
prevent it from gaining a Michelin star in 2022. The two stand perpendicular to
each other, gazing over a manicured lawn, gardens and a lake. Behind Moor Hall
lies an expansive walled vegetable and herb garden, vouchsafing that a fair
proportion of ingredients are wrenched from the soil a few meters away from
your plate. For those traveling afar, there are several rooms providing
overnight accommodation.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674834834891-moor+hall+black+pudding_copy.jpg">Charcuterie, black pudding with pickled gooseberry, “Crown Prince” (chorizo and egg) 

The
Grade II listed gentry house was built in 1533, though the site’s name dates
back to 1282. In 2015, it was acquired by Andy and Tracey Bell. The couple restored
the buildings and successfully maintained their timeworn, lived-in ambiance.
The whitewashed exterior looks splendid, while the interior is all weathered oak
beams and bas-relief. Chef Mark Birchall is a former Roux Scholar who honed his
craft at El Celler de Can Roca before heading up the open kitchen of
Simon Rogan’s lauded L’Enclume, an hour or so up the motorway. Apart
from dinner, Moor Hall offers two lunch options. There is an eight-course menu
for £95.00 per person and what you might call the “Full Monty” at £225.00 per
person. I threw caution to the wind because I had traveled far and did not know
when or if I could return.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674835257320-moor+hall+cod+roe_copy.jpg">Cod roe with chicken, chervil and caviar 

The
meal does not commence in the restaurant. Upon arrival, diners are ushered into
an adjoining room furnished with comfy leather sofas, an obligatory burning log
fire and a bijou bar where cocktails or bubbles can be ordered, canapés served
on varnished wooden platters. Amongst these, the dainty puff of black pudding
with pickled gooseberry is outstanding, exploding with flavour as soon as you
pop it in your mouth. The cod roe with chicken, chervil and caviar is
electrifying.&nbsp;&nbsp; <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674835288895-moor+hall+kitchen_copy.jpg">Smoked eel with fermented garlic and flowers

One-by-one,
each table is escorted to the open kitchen, a neat way of staggering diners into
the main room. Birchall leads around 20 young men and women, smartly dressed in
whites working along rows of zinc worktops that evoke hazy memories of the
kitchens at El Bulli. There is an almost ecclesiastical sense of what might be
termed “intense calm” as culinary objets d’art are surgically assembled.
I do not catch sight of Birchall himself, though our waiter assures me that he is
present. Here, we are treated to the smoked eel with potato, fermented garlic
and decorated with edible flowers – completely divine.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674835408417-moor+hall+interior_copy.jpg">The Moor Hall interior 

The
restaurant is housed in a modern, commodious, tastefully-designed, high-ceilinged
and glass-fronted extension attached to the original house, affording a
relaxing view of the grounds and plenty of light to contrast with the more tenebrous
entrance. Tables are widely spaced with around 20 to 25 covers. A plate of
linseed bread is offered with two types of homemade butter, one a culture blend
and the other with lovage, chive and basil. The bread is gooey and so delicious
that it is almost tortuous resisting to eat more, knowing how many courses are to
follow.

The stream
of dishes that follow is almost uniformly breathtaking. Sometimes images
communicate the quality of dishes better than words, and I have done my best in
this respect. The menu is generally adventurous without being pretentious; the
only commonality is a tinge of regret when finally swallowing whatever is in my
mouth. Nearly every course is moderate in size, with just two meat-based dishes.
Therefore, over the period of three or four hours, I never feel bloated or overwhelmed
by calories and carbs.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674835466359-moor+hall+oyster_copy.jpg">Louët-Feisser oysters with white beetroot, dill and buttermilk 

The
Louët-Feisser oysters with white beetroot, dill and buttermilk is one of two or
three dishes assembled at our table. The Grade 0 bivalves had been caught in
Carlingford Loch just that morning, and they paddle about in a bronze fennel
juice poured by our waiter. The oysters are sweet and smooth in texture,
combining exquisitely with the white beetroot that imparts a vital tang.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674835543704-moor+hall+carrot_copy.jpg">Paris market carrots, Doddington cheese, chrysanthemum and sea buckthorn 

The
Paris market carrots come from the local Royal Oak farm and are served with a
Doddington cheese powder (courtesy of cheesemaker Maggie Maxwell), chrysanthemum
and sea buckthorn. It seems ridiculous that I detested carrots as a child. On
the other hand, my family did not make them as mouth-watering as these orange
fellas, notwithstanding the exemplary presentation.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674835593191-moor+hall+turnip_copy.jpg">Turnip and crab, anise hyssop and sunflower seeds 

A small
but perfect dish of turnip and crab is next. The root veg is sourced from chef
Brian Turner’s farm and comes with anise hyssop broth and sunflower seeds,
partnered with a Kombu seaweed-infused broth that had been strained and poured
in front of diners. I love the earthy acridity of the turnip and the nuanced
sweetness of the crab, the broth binding the flavours together. There’s an
obvious Japanese influence here, and it works supremely well.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674835634903-moor+hall+beef_copy.jpg">Hereford sirloin, barbecued celeriac, mustard and shallot 

The
solitary red meat dish is the 80-day aged sirloin from Nunton Farm in
Herefordshire, aged 60 days and then 20 days on and off the bone. This comes
with barbecued celeriac, Savoy mustard and sliced shallot, a side of cornichons,
lace-like squid ink crackers and burnt onion ash powder. It looks and tastes spectacular,
the beef melt-in-your-mouth in texture.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674835699535-moor+hall+scallop_copy.jpg">Isle of Mull scallop with fermented grains, green tomato and cauliflower purée 

Two
seafood courses commence with a scallop from the Isle of Mull cooked over a
yakitori grill. It comes with fermented miso grains, green tomato, grilled
cauliflower and cauliflower purée. The scallop taste momentarily transports you
to the windswept Scottish Highlands, the tomato imparting sharpness and the
purée the sweetness. Utterly sublime.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674835723942-moor+hall+turbot_copy.jpg">Turbot with Kuri squash, girolles, sea greens and Suquet sauce 

The
turbot from Cornwall is prepared on the bone and served midway between raw and
cooked. This comes with red Kuri squash, girolles, a sea green, Suquet sauce (a
Catalan fish stew) and razor clams dressed with oyster leaf and confit
tomatoes. Masticating as slowly as possible so I could savour every morsel, would
it be rude to ask for more? I am sorely tempted.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674835767163-moor+hall+guinea+fowl_copy.jpg">Méracq Guinea hen with beetroot, sweetcorn and white beans, ragout and whey onion The
Méracq Guinea hen “flew” over from southwest France and is served with beetroot
prepared in different ways, powdered and as a gel, a sweetcorn salsa Verde,
white beans, ragout and a whey onion, liver and truffle puree. The guinea hen is
cooked to absolute perfection, the salsa Verde lending bite and the beetroot
earthiness. Fabulous.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674835819843-moor+hall+gingerbread_copy.jpg">Ormskirk gingerbread with roots and pine We are treated
to no less than four desserts. The bowl of Ormskirk gingerbread with a root and
pine garnish is a guilty pleasure. There is something almost childlike about
this dish, the garnish lending a slight smokiness. As an aside, gingerbread is
said to have originated from Ormskirk in the 18th century, popular
in the north of England before King Edward VII purportedly stopped his royal
train heading up to Balmoral so he could stock up. This is a nice nod to its
roots.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674835896893-moor+hall+blackberries_copy.jpg">Scarisbrick blackberries with lemon verbena, begonia and ragstone cheese The
Scarisbrick blackberries are served with lemon verbena, begonia and ragstone
cheese, a redcurrant powder sprinkled over the top. Its pulchritude is almost
too much to demolish, but I have no regrets after spooning the first mouthful.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674835970025-moor+hall+apples_copy.jpg">Garden apples and gooseberry, woodruff, birch sap and marigold mousse 

The
next dessert is vividly coloured: a garden apple terrine and a gooseberry
sorbet sat upon an almond crumble base furnished with a woodruff, birch sap and
marigold mousse. Heavenly. Finally, a fermented apricot gel comes with wild
honey and puffed buckwheat, a suitably sweet denouement to our lunch, where I noticed
we were one of the first seated and last to depart. We are escorted back to the
log fire, where petit-fours and a selection from their walk-in cheese larder are
served, plus coffee courtesy of the consistently excellent Difference Coffee
Company.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674836006262-moor+hall+apricot_copy.jpg">Fermented apricot with wild honey and puffed buckwheat 

The
wine list is pricey. There are no bargains to be found, which is a shame. The
sommelier is first-class: informative and personable without overstaying his
welcome. The restaurant permitted me to bring my bottle for £60.00 corkage,
steep maybe, but plenty of others flatly refuse such requests. As etiquette
dictates, even though I have to be abstemious, I order a bottle off the list.

The 2016
Skerpioen from Sadie Family Winery is the only vintage not reviewed on
Vinous and so why not fill in the gap? It is a brilliant Chenin Blanc and
Palomino blend; there’s a razor-sharp definition on the nose with scents of
seaweed and sea spray, a background of flinty aromas emerging with time. The
palate offers exquisite balance thanks to its silver bead of acidity, that marine
theme continuing towards its almost balletic, graceful finish with hazelnut and
a pistachio hint on the aftertaste. I often think that Sadie’s Old Vine Series
wines are drunk too young, and this wine not only benefits from a bit of bottle
age but will clearly give another 15-20 years of drinking pleasure. Incidentally,
not wishing to waste, the bottle is brought home and tastes just as good 24
hours later.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674836066527-moor+hall+sadie_copy.jpg">My
bottle of 1970 Labégorce had been acquired in Burgundy. This era is not
particularly renowned for the Margaux estate, yet it shows better than
expected. Light bricking on the rim, it has a rustic and tertiary nose of
decaying autumn leaves, roasted chestnut and sage. The balsamic bordering on
acetic tincture becomes more prominent with aeration, developing some unwanted
rusty nail scents with time. The palate is medium-weight with coarse tannins,
arguably missing some Margaux DNA but with pleasant sour cherry on its acetic
finish. It holds together over three to four hours, and I could not ask for
anything more. <img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1674836092232-labegorce+bottle_copy.jpg">Moor
Hall completely blew me away; lofty expectations surpassed and then some.
It takes the best parts of its peers and combines them into something greater.
There’s the flavour execution of Brett Graham at The Ledbury, the theatre of
Heston Blumenthal, the precision of Clare Smyth, the rural locale of Waterside
Inn. Based on this meal, Moor Hall has its nose in front of all the
aforementioned. Service was tip-top by every team member I met throughout the
afternoon. Though by far the most expensive lunch or dinner of 2022, even with
BYOB, I left without regret. Recently, discussions among food lovers focus on
whether restaurants cruising at this level are economically viable or even
relevant in these straitened times. Tastes are leaning more toward simpler
cuisine, my own included. But every now and then, if the opportunity arrives,
perhaps it is worth throwing caution to the wind, living life to the fullest and
experiencing a chef and his kitchen’s mastery. It’s a memory that I will never
forget. After Moor Hall, whenever somebody enquires about the best restaurant
in the UK, I will not hesitate to reply. <div></div>© 2023, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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