The River Café – London

Thames Wharf

Rainville Rd, London W6 9HA

+44 (0)20 7386 4200

(Nearest tube: a stroll from Hammersmith or, best advice, catch a cab)

BY NEAL MARTIN |

The Food:

Fig pizza

Chargrilled squid with fresh red chilli and rocket

Girolles with borlotti beans

Ravioli stuffed with buffalo ricotta, garden herbs and lemon zest with marjoram butter and pecorino

Wood-roasted whole Dover sole with wild oregano, capers and lemon with slow-cooked peas

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How long must a restaurant exist before it becomes an institution? The River Café is the paradigmatic restaurant institution. People know it even if they have never eaten there nor ever will.