<a target="_blank" href="http://unionsquarecafe.com/">Union Square Café</a> 

21
East 16th St.,

New
York, NY

Tel.
+1 (212) 243-4020

Union Square Café is a Manhattan
landmark. Although today the neighborhood is quite chic, that certainly wasn’t
the case when Danny Meyer opened in 1985. Union Square Café has a familiar,
comfortable feel that resonates in everything from the décor, to the food and
service. On this night the food was terrific, although it was impossible to
escape the feeling that the overall experience was a bit staid. A slight
updating wouldn’t be a bad thing.

The fried calamari and tuna tartare
appetizer were delicious. I especially enjoyed the tuna, which was full of
hearty, bold flavors accented by the slightly larger dice of the fish than is
common in most versions of this dish. Littorai’s
2008 Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard showed attractive lemon, smoke and
mineral notes overlayed with subtle hints of French oak. It paired beautifully
with our first two appetizers, but was at its most satisfying when paired with
the Cappellini with Bottarga. The rich, deep flavors of fish roe needed an
intense wine, and the Littorai was striking with this pasta dish.

The main courses were the stars on
this night. The Berkshire pork chop was perfectly cooked and seasoned. Sweet
notes from the squash and figs worked beautifully. The lamb chops were even
tastier, with plenty of flavor but no elements at all of gaminess. All of the
elements on the plate were beautifully balanced. Arcadian’s 2006 Pinot Noir Dierberg Vineyard offered a wonderful
combination of richness and understated elegance that allowed it to pair well
with both main courses while not overwhelming the food. I especially like the
purity of the floral, mineral-infused fruit. We skipped desserts, but the
plates being brought into the dining room looked very appealing.

Food:

Fried Calamari, Spicy Anchovy
Mayonnaise 

Tuna Tartare, Preserved Lemon,
Capers, Aleppo Cracker 

Cappellini with Bottarga

Berkshire Pork Chop, Roasted
Delicata Squash, Figs, Braised Greens 

Grilled Lamb Chops Scotta Dita,
Swiss Chard, Potato-Gruyère Gratin

Wine: 

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 N.V.
 </td>
 <td>
 Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve
 </td>
 <td>
 88
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2008
 </td>
 <td>
 Littorai Chardonnay Charles
 Heintz Vineyard
 </td>
 <td>
 92
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2006
 </td>
 <td>
 Arcadian Pinot Noir Dierberg
 Vineyard
 </td>
 <td>
 91</td></tr></tbody></table>

-- Antonio Galloni[Photo and credit: Union Square Cafe, New York]

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