A Holiday Lunch December 2008

Sometimes simpler is better, as was the case with this
holiday lunch. The 2000 Dom Pérignon
was absolutely delicious as it hovered on the palate in fresh, sensual style.
Everything was in the right place in this elegant, refined and exceptionally
well-balanced Dom Pérignon. The NV Brut
Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Les Crayères (disgorged July 2008) from Egly-Ouriet was even better. A
kaleidoscopic, multi-dimensional wine, the Crayères blossomed on the palate in
stunning style as endless layers of perfumed fruit wafted from the glass. This
was a spectacular bottle, and the wine showed even better than when I reviewed
it previously. I have been fortunate to enjoy several bottles of Dauvissat’s 2006 Chablis Les Clos and
they have all been gorgeous. This firm, taut Chablis was packed with perfumed,
mineral-laced fruit. Although the wine will be even better with a few more
years in the cellar it is pretty impressive even at this early stage. These
three wines paired beautifully with a heap of the freshest jumbo Florida stone
crabs, which seemed to disappear in an instant. What a treat, as the crabs were
spectacular.

For our main course I thought it would be fun to check in on
a couple of wines from Piedmont’s 2000
vintage. Bruno Giacosa’s Barbaresco
Asili Riserva was initially quite reticent, but then opened up nicely in
the glass to reveal the full breadth of its inner perfume. Unfortunately this
wasn’t the finest example of this wine I have ever had, but it was still
outstanding. Roberto Voerzio's 2000
Barolo Cerequio was extraordinary. I remember tasting the wine from barrel
back in 2002. It was great then, and it was just as great today. To be honest,
2000 is not my absolute favorite vintage of this Barolo, as the wine has never
shown the level of definition and clarity of cooler and better-balanced years.
Still, this was an extremely beautiful, fresh Cerequio with tons of fruit. The
oak had integrated and the wine was simply stunning. Everyone at the table loved
this bottle, even those with a decided preference for more traditional wines.
Fortunately I think I have a few of these left! Veal is one of my favorite
foods for pairing with Barolo and Barbaresco as the meat can be very flavorful
but also have a certain transparency that allows it to marry nicely with
Nebbiolo. Both wines were delicous with these sublime grilled veal t-bones, but
I found myself coming back often to the Voerzio, which was simply monumental.&nbsp;

Food:&nbsp;

Florida Stone Crabs 

Grilled Veal with Roasted Potatoes and Salad

Wine: &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;

<table>
 <tbody><tr>
 <td>
 2000
 </td>
 <td>
 Möet e Chandon Dom Pérignon
 </td>
 <td>
 94
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 NV
 </td>
 <td>
 Egly-Ouriet Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Les Crayères
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2006
 </td>
 <td>
 Dauvissat Chablis Les Clos
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2000
 </td>
 <td>
 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili
 </td>
 <td>
 95
 </td>
 </tr>
 <tr>
 <td>
 2000
 </td>
 <td>
 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio
 </td>
 <td>
 97
 </td>
 </tr>
</tbody></table>--Antonio Galloni

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