<a target="_blank" href="http://www.univerre-restaurant.com/">L’Univerre</a>

40
rue Lecocq

33000
Bordeaux, France

Tel
+33 5 56 23 01 53

Wines:

2010&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Domaine
du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne Romanée 1er Les Chaumes&nbsp;&nbsp; 94<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1397749132112-WineandCover+-+Copy+-+Copy.jpg"> 

Food:

Mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes,
mesclun salad

Roasted beef tenderloin wrapped in
bacon, French fries

Readers visiting Bordeaux will want to set aside at least one night for
L’Univerre. The wine list will leave even the most seasoned traveler drooling,
while the food is absolutely delicious.

Set in the center of Bordeaux, L’Univerre is an updated, modern version
of the classic French winebar/bistro. The ambience is casual, unpretentious and
welcoming. Zalto glasses and an extraordinary attention to detail are but two
elements that elevate the experience at L’Univerre. Proprietor Fabrice Moisan
curates an extraordinary wine list full of hard to find jewels from all over
the world. The list includes a number of older wines that are virtually
impossible to find today, plus a fabulous selection of current releases, all at
prices that will leave diners wondering when they can come back for another
meal. Most of the emphasis is on Burgundy and the Rhône, although there are
plenty of compelling wines from other regions.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1397749095615-Mozzarella+-+Copy.jpg"> Mozzarella,
sun-dried tomatoes, mesclun salad

The food is simple and impeccably prepared, with pure flavors that
really allow wines to shine. L’Univerre’s Mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes,
mesclun salad is hardly typical Bordelais fare, but it is quite delicious and a
welcome change after two weeks of eating the richer food that is typical here.
The roasted beef tenderloin wrapped in bacon, French fries is
a classic. Cooked perfectly, the beef is simply superb. We fare pretty well
with wine, too. The Comte Liger-Belair wines are virtually impossible to find,
so I never miss an opportunity to drink them when I see them. The 2010 Vosne Romanée Les Chaumes is
simply dazzling in the glass. Beams of underlying minerality and acidity lend
support to the brilliant, chiseled fruit. This is the first vintage of the
Chaumes to incorporate whole clusters, which seem to give the wine a level of
aromatic lift, salinity and pure energy that cut through the richness of the
beef beautifully. Today, the Chaumes is even better than it was a year ago. Of
course, the 2010 is far too young to offer its best drinking, but it is
stunning just the same.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1397749062250-Steak+-+Copy.jpg"> Roasted
beef tenderloin wrapped in bacon, French fries

Readers spending time in Bordeaux
will not want to miss L’Univerre. The setting might be informal, but don’t be
fooled. The food and wine is just as delicious, if not better, than what
visitors will find in some of the region’s fancier establishments.

-- Antonio Galloni

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