1979 Domaine Macle Château-Chalon
BY NEAL MARTIN |
Like many winelovers, I am fascinated by the Jura region, but for my sins, have never found the time to visit. Whenever I visit Burgundy on a clear day, I often stop and gaze towards its hills in the far distance and resolve that one day I shall venture across. In recent years, the Jura has gained a cult following for its wines; but alas, quantities have always been small, and a series of devastating recent vintages means there is a wide, almost irreparable disparity between supply and demand.
Last August, I was fortunate to taste a Jura legend, the 1979 Château-Chalon, that graced our table in its distinctive squat 620ml bottle (known as a “clavelin”.) The Macle family originally migrated from Italy in the 1850s and diversified part of their land to cultivating vines, though the domaine was only created by Jean Macle in 1966, now co-managed by his son Laurent. They farm 12-hectares in total, four-hectares within the tiny AC of Château-Chalon, famed for its oxidative Vins Jaune made from the Savagnin grape variety. It is maturated in barrels that, like sherry, are not topped-up, instead left to create a protective flor that prevents excessive oxidation. The wines develop an acquired taste that you grow to love.
Like many winelovers, I am fascinated by the Jura region, but for my sins, have never found the time to visit. Whenever I visit Burgundy on a clear day, I often stop and gaze towards its hills in the far distance and resolve that one day I shall venture across.
