2020 Château
d’Yquem

BY NEAL MARTIN |&nbsp;JUNE 20, 2023As most
devotees to all things botrytised and golden will be aware, in recent years,
Château Yquem has changed the timing of their releases so that each primeur
they only show the latest bottled vintage instead of the latest in barrel.
Ergo, this year, I was afforded an opportunity to taste the 2020 Yquem when
visiting the estate. Newly-appointed technical director Lorenzo Pasquini gave
me some brief background information: "The most important factor with
regard to the 2020 vintage is that October was the fifth rainiest at&nbsp;Yquem.
Therefore, the heart of the wine comes from a five-day window between October
16 and 21. There were actually four tries between September 14 and
October 26; however, the last two were sold off as bulk. We have been reducing
the level of SO2 in recent years. The 2020 was matured entirely in new oak as
usual (albeit for 22 months whereas in the past it was 36 months), and this
vintage contains 135g/l residual sugar.”<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1686930390559-yquem+2020+bottle.jpg">The
2020 Yquem, a blend of 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc, cropped at a
measly 10hl/ha, has a very sensual bouquet. It’s pretty mercurial as it unfolds
in the glass, with scents of freshly sliced white peaches, almonds and
pineapple. The oak is beautifully integrated, and allowing it further time,
there are additional scents of Vervain tea, pressed white flowers and saffron.
The palate makes an immediate impact with a mineral-rich, surprisingly saline
entry that lends it edginess right from the off. The poise in this Yquem rivets
you to the spot. Compared to recent vintages, this keeps everything buttoned
down and tightly controlled until the finish, whereupon it fans out with
nascent swagger. Stem ginger, caramelized pear and orange rind notes are delivered
with excellent delineation. This animated and opulent Yquem is destined to age
gracefully over the coming decades. 97/Drink 2040-2100.&nbsp;&nbsp; © 2023, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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