2009&nbsp;Pepe Raventós&nbsp;Mas del Serral

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 02, 2020I covered the wines of Spain for 14 months around 2012/2013,
an ominous task because of the sheer number of eclectic wines and regions, plus
the fact that I lacked in-depth knowledge of the country. In retrospect, though,
that gave me a necessary clean slate to evaluate the wines without preconceived
notions. My appreciation for Spain grew exponentially during that time and in
the end, I thoroughly enjoyed that part of my career. I miss the wine and the
winemakers, not to mention the amazing regional cuisines. Many of my
perceptions towards Spanish wines were changed, the first immediately during my
inaugural trip to Penedès in Catalonia. There I was, stupid me, thinking cava was
a cheap supermarket fodder for those that do not want to shell out for champagne.
That erroneous assumption was addressed on day one.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1583161036510-mas_del_serral_2009.jpg"> 

I met winemaker Pepe Raventós at a dinner for artisan
Spanish winemakers at Noble Rot that preceded the Viñateros tasting this past February. We never met during my short
tenure as reviewer, however it was his wines alongside those of Gramona, that
blew apart my preconceptions of what Cava can achieve. Raventós shared a magnum
of 2009&nbsp;Pepe Raventós&nbsp;Mas del Serral,
one of only 849 produced in what is its second release. It comes from 1.92-hectares
parcel of biodynamically-farmed Xarello, handpicked and whole bunch pressed,
fermented in stainless steel and aged for a whopping 100 months on the lees.
Sporting a burnished limpid straw hue, the 2009 boasts an electrifying bouquet laced
with scents of orange rind, sea spray and oyster shells - the marine-like
aromas intensifying with aeration. The palate delivers exquisite harmony and
the tension that would embarrass many a self-aggrandizing Champagne. There is
so much energy coiled up in this Cava, with a glorious saline edginess on the
finish that urges you back for another sip (and another and another.) This cuvée
is not inexpensive and is very limited in quantity, but it is also unequivocally
sensational. It will drink well for maybe 15 to 20 years. 95/Drink 2020-2035.

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