Cellar
Favorite: 2009 &amp; 2010 Cos d’Estournel 

BY NEAL MARTIN | FEBRUARY 3, 2025

The 2009
and 2010 Cos d'Estournel were among the vintages poured at the
Vinous Icons Miami event in November 2024. They provide an enlightening
contrast between two stylistically different vintages. The 2009 is a
Saint-Estèphe lauded in some quarters upon release, anointed with perfect
scores, albeit not from myself. From my introduction in barrel with then estate
manager, Jean-Guillaume Prats, the 2009 felt over-endowed, a wine predesigned
to flutter its lashes during en primeur, one that equated sheer power
with quality. I last drank this vintage six years ago. It remains decadent and
ostentatious on the nose, rich and almost over-generous with crème de cassis
and iodine scents. It comes across more Napa than Bordeaux, and contentiously,
perhaps that was the intention? Likewise, the palate is decked out with lush
and slightly overripe black fruit, relatively low acidity and plenty of weight
but not much in the way of finesse. Admittedly, I don't find the wine
unenjoyable, and my score should reflect that. You have to admire its hedonism,
and if that’s your bag, you’ll love it. But the 2009 harks back to a period
when even some of the Médoc’s grandest châteaux seemed to follow a&nbsp;recipe,
when more was always more. 91/Drink 2025-2040<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1738596613183-Untitled+design+%285%29.jpg"> 

The 2010
Cos d'Estournel, which winemaker Dominique Arangoïts poured from magnum, is
cut from a different cloth to the previous vintage. This is much fresher on the
nose and crucially displays more typicité, yet it delivers just as much
punch as the 2009. Black fruit commingles with melted tar and smoke. A sprig of
wild mint surfaces with continued aeration. The palate possesses immense
gravitas and dimension, analogous to a magnificent suspension bridge. It is
less ostentatious than the 2009, with firmer grip and greater control and
sapidity on the finish. Whilst I can understand some might prefer the 2009, the
2010 Cos d'Estournel is just more...Cos d'Estournel, though be warned, it would
still benefit from a couple more years in bottle. Magnificent. 97/Drink
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