Blandy’s Madeira – 2022 Bottlings

BY NEAL MARTIN | SEPTEMBER 26, 2022

I recently joined Blandy’s CEO, Chris Blandy, and head winemaker, Francisco Albuquerque, for a tasting of their 2022 Madeira bottlings. Blandy opined that he sees a big future for the drier styles, especially Sercial, and that volumes of Verdelho have doubled in recent years, which allows the house to keep back more stock as reserves or used as table wine. On the other hand, he stressed that Bual risks disappearing in the next decade, with just 14 hectares remaining on the west side of the island. In terms of vinification, Blandy also suggested that technological advances means that they may alter temperature and humidity for each grape variety, something not presently possible. We broached these from youngest to oldest and readers should note that the Cossart Gordon wines are not sold in the UK.

The 2009 Blandy’s Colheita Single Harvest Sercial (2022 Bottling) comes from around 20 hectares remaining on the island. It is burnished straw in colour. The nose is attractive with desiccated orange peel, mandarin and light kerosene aromas. The palate has a potent tang of marmalade on the entry, modest weight with fine balance, even though it needs a tad more complexity towards the finish. Still, I appreciate the nuttiness and oxidative tincture that lingers on the aftertaste. 2,600 bottles produced. 90/Drink 2023-2036. The 2009 Blandy’s Colheita Single Harvest Verdelho (2022 Bottling), which contains 70g/L residual sugar, has a light, grilled hazelnut and quite ume nose, where I would like to see a little more vigour, though appealing touches of dried apricot and fig are revealed with time. The palate has a subtle viscous texture on the entry, crisp acidity with a tangy marmalade. Menthol and Chinese 5-spice combine effectively on the finish that appears to possess more persistence than the Sercial. Delicious. 2,600 bottles produced. 92/Drink 2023-2040.