Three from
Domaine Leflaive

It’s a real treat to revisit three whites from Leflaive with a small group of tasters. Even though
many of the best Burgundies have now become prohibitively expensive, at their
purest essence these wines still represent the toil of farmers working on an
artisan scale with&nbsp;tiny plots of land, each with their own unique attributes. The three whites in this tasting open a small window into
the career of one of Burgundy’s most brilliant vignerons. Sadly, Leflaive
passed away earlier this year, but these wines are a poignant reminder of the rich legacy she leaves behind.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1438606318528-LeflaiveCover-Sized.jpg">

The 1996 Chevalier-Montrachet opens with
the classic reductive Leflaive bouquet. Slate, smoke, almonds and white stone
fruits abound. Still tense, vibrant and pulsating with energy,
the 1996 will continue to drink beautifully for a number of years. If opened
today, the 1996 needs a good bit of air, though, so readers need to be patient.&nbsp;Personally, I would prefer to see a
little less reduction in a twenty year-old white. 94/Drinking window: 2015-2025. Even though the 2001 Chevalier-Montrachet is five years younger than the 1996, it
comes across as a bit more forward, evolved and open-knit, but that is not at
all a bad thing, as the 2001 is more enjoyable to drink now. Layers of creamy,
tropical-inflected fruit flesh out effortlessly in the glass. Scents of marzipan, chamomile,
apricot, lemon oil and light, floral-infused honey all add further shades of nuance.
Wonderfully complete and seductive, the 2001 Chevalier is a great choice for drinking today, although I would not push my luck too far beyond another
handful of years at most. 95/Drinking
window: 2015-2020.

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1438606331479-Leflaive2-Sized.jpg">A
huge, almost overpowering Burgundy, the 2007
Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet possesses towering structure and imposing
depth, with seemingly endless layers of texture that fill out its broad, ample
frame. The flavors are naturally unevolved at this stage; instead what stands
out is the wine’s explosive personality and overall&nbsp;intensity. This is a very strong
showing from a wine that sometimes gets&nbsp;lost&nbsp;in the Leflaive range. 95/Drinking
window: 2015-2025.&nbsp;

--
Antonio Galloni

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