1924 Gruaud
Larose

BY NEAL MARTIN |&nbsp;OCTOBER 14, 2024This
century-old bottle of 1924 Gruaud Larose was a late addition to a
mouth-watering line-up of fermented grape juice poured at Ming Court restaurant
on my final night in Hong Kong. At this point in its history, Désiré Cordier
had been proprietor for six years, and as indicated by the label, this came
from the Sarget part of the estate which was later reunited in 1935. The label
also indicated “F. Froidefond à Barsac,” likely referring to the same family
that owned Château de Rolland. Doubtless, they bought a stash from Cordier
either for personal consumption or to sell.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1728660673907-CF_Oct142024+%282%29.jpg">I have tasted many vintages of this Saint-Julien, but never the 1924. What made this
bottle more enticing was the high fill level, particularly because it had never
been reconditioned. This came replete with original cork (reconditioned bottles
are an issue I shall delve into in a future article). Showing minor bricking on
the rim and garnet core, the 1924 remains clear in color. The bouquet is a
complete knockout: mulberry, molasses, hints of dark chocolate that recede with
aeration, classic scents of _sous-bois_ taking over with maybe a
scintilla of Brettanomyces. The wine blossoms for 45 minutes before oxygen
begins to dismantle it. Svelte tannins mark the palate, and the texture
suggests this was a rich wine in its youth. Very elegant and harmonious, even
after 100 years, it exudes Saint-Julien typicité. The finish is slightly
candied, implying a touch of residual sugar. Like the aromatics, the palate
begins to fade in the glass after a while. Nevertheless, it testifies to the
magnificent quality of this estate’s wines in this fecund decade. 95/Drink
2024-2034. © 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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