What a pleasure it is to taste older vintages of Le Pergole Torte (loosely translated, “the rickety or dodgy canopies”), one of my five or six favorite Italian wines. The 1988, blessed with what I think is one of the prettiest of Alberto Manfredi’s many wonderful labels, is still a remarkably solid, youthful wine made while Montevertine founder Sergio Manetti was still alive.
