2012 Domaine G. Roumier Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru

BY ANTONIO GALLONI&nbsp;| APRIL 1, 2019&nbsp;

Usually we either read about Burgundies as new releases or
as older, mature wines. It is harder to find impressions on Burgundies in the
7-10 year-old range that are both drinking well and possibly available in the market
or on restaurant lists at less than the stratospheric prices the most coveted
Burgundies command these days. For those reasons I thought it might be
interesting to feature Christophe
Roumier’s 2012 Clos de la Bussière as this week’s Cellar Favorite.

Perhaps because of its tannic backbone and structural
profile Clos de la Bussière has long flown under the radar. To be sure, Clos de
la Bussière does not have the immediate allure or charm of Roumier’s
Chambolles. I remember being deeply impressed with the 2012 when I tasted it
from barrel a few years ago. Back then, I wrote “A cool, reticent Burgundy, the 2012 impresses for its persistence,
delineation and intensity… I wouldn't open a bottle before its tenth birthday,
as this is a wine that has always repaid cellaring. I expect that will be the
case again within the 2012. This is a fabulous showing. Stylistically, the Clos
de la Bussière is classic Morey in its pure power.” I felt the same way
tasting the 2012 recently.<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1554127590771-IMG_5742_copy.jpg"> 

As Burgundy lovers know, 2012 was a vintage with abnormally low
yields that resulted in deep, concentrated wines. Today, the 2012 shows all of
the richness of the year in spades. The natural intensity of the red stone
fruit provides a striking foil for swaths of tannin that lurk beneath. Floral,
spice and mineral notes develop in the glass hinting at the complexity that
will develop over time. With a little air, the 2012 is drinking well today,
although it has more than enough pedigree to age beautifully for many years to
come. Readers lucky enough to own the 2012 should be thrilled. It is a superb
bottle! 93/Drink 2020-2040.

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