Cellar Favorite:&nbsp;Vilmart Coeur de
Cuvée&nbsp;2006 &amp; 2003

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | APRIL 14, 2025

Vilmart’s Coeur de Cuvée is one of the most consistently
outstanding wines in Champagne because of how well it shows in both strong and
challenging years. A blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, Coeur de Cuvée
emerges from 60+ year-old vines in the Blanches Voies lieu-dit in
Rilly-la-Montagne. It is made from only the central part of cuvée (hence its
name), where depth and textural finesse are at their most intense. Vinification
and aging are done in 228-liter French oak barriques, with blocked malolactic
fermentation. I tasted the 2006 and 2003, both original disgorgements, with
Laurent and Thomas Champs during a recent visit to Vilmart in March 2025. I
can’t say I was surprised by how the wines age, as I have tasted more than
enough Vilmart Champagnes to have a clear idea of how enjoyable they are at
this stage. The 2006 and 2003 are peaking today, making them fine choices for
readers who enjoy mature Champagne.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1744640181415-CF_Apr142025.jpg">The 2006 Brut Coeur de Cuvée Oenothèque is
exceptionally beautiful. Rich and vivid in the glass, with magnificent balance,
the 2006 is in fine shape today. Candied lemon peel, mint, marzipan, white
pepper, baked apple tart and light tropical notes are so vivid in the glass.
Still quite deep and layered, the 2006 will drink well for at least another
handful of years. What a gorgeous Champagne it is. Disgorged: July 2013.&nbsp;95/2025-2030 

The 2003 Brut Coeur de Cuvée Oenothèque is even more
surprising than the 2006 tasted alongside it. The first impression is one of a
lighter year relative to 2006, but with age it is harder to tell how much of
that is the vintage and how much is simply the passage of time. I was certainly
not expecting this to be 2003. Medium in body and fresh, the 2003 is exquisite.
It does not have the mid-palate resonance of the very best years, especially at
this age, but it has aged impeccably and remains quite fresh. Pear, spice and
floral overtones grace this very pretty, expressive Coeur de Cuvée. Spring
frost and then brutally hot, dry weather in summer reduced yields by nearly
50%, resulting in a Champagne with very low acidity. Even so, the 2003 aged
beautifully. I don't see it improving much from here, however. Any remaining
bottles need to be finished. Disgorged: July 2010.&nbsp;93/2025-2028© 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or redistributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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