Taittinger: 1996 &amp; 1995 Comtes de Champagne

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | OCTOBER 17, 2016 &nbsp;

Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne has long been a personal
favorite. Among other things, Comtes ages spectacularly well, is relatively
easy to find (despite its small production) and is very well priced for the
quality relative to its peers. Because of its somewhat lower profile within the
world of grande marque Champagne,
Comtes remains the insiders’ wine among the region’s luxury tête
de cuvées. In my view, Comtes is a
core holding in any well-stocked cellar of fine Champagne. 

<img alt="" src="https://allgrapes.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads%2F1476717752501-File+Oct+17%2C+10+30+01+AM+copy.jpeg"> 

The 1996 Comtes de
Champagne is utterly magnificent. The bouquet alone is enthralling.
Brioche, baked apple, pear, vanilla and spice flesh out first. Wonderfully deep
and seductive, the 1996 possesses superb depth to match its exquisite, layered
personality. The 1996 finishes with a hint of reduction and that note of lemon
confit that is such a signature of Comtes with some bottle age. Just entering
the early plateau of its maturity, the 1996 will continue to delight those
lucky enough to own it for another two decades or more. This is an especially
vibrant bottle of the 1996, but it was also disgorged in 2012, a few years after
the initial release. 98/Drinking
Window: 2016-2036. Candied apricot, honey blossom, orange rind and tropical
fruits are some of the many notes that emerge from the 1995 Comtes de Champagne. Although not as ripe on paper as the
1996, the 1995 is unmistakably exotic and flamboyant. Wonderfully expressive,
open-knit and giving, the 1995 is a fabulous choice for drinking now, as it is
close to fully mature. I don't expect the 1995 to be as long-lived as the most
cellar worthy vintages, but it is positively stunning today. I’ve had slightly
fresher bottles of the 1995, but in recent tastings, the it has always had a
very specific extroverted character. 96/Drinking
Window: 2016-2026.

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