1991 René
Balthazar Cornas

BY NEAL MARTIN |&nbsp;MARCH 18, 2024The
Northern Rhône is a region that I would like to know better. There is too
little time with Burgundy and Bordeaux under my charge, so I look forward to
future reports from my colleague, Nicolas Greinacher. A recent Riesling/Syrah-themed
dinner was bejeweled with exquisite bottles and fodder for several Cellar Favorites.
This one caught my eye. Balthazar is not a producer I know well, though friends
speak highly of their wines, including recent vintages made by René’s son
Franck, who took the reins in 2002.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710516310254-rene+balthazar_copy+%281%29.jpg">The 1991
Cornas epitomizes everything I adore about mature Northern Rhône,
especially in this fecund vintage. To the best of my knowledge, this precedes
the estate bottling, the Chaillot, as a separate cuvée and was aged in 8 to
10-year-old _demi-muids_. Showing modest bricking on the rim, it is relatively
light in color for a Cornas. The bouquet is a spectral beauty and unfurls with
vestiges of brambly red fruit, decaying autumn leaves, wild hedgerow, morels
and a touch of bay leaf. It is paradoxically light, but there is real depth to
the aromatics. The palate is fully mature, with melted tannins, yet it
continues to exert a gentle grip. There’s predominantly red fruit: wild
strawberry and raspberry intermixed with subtle tobacco and dried blood, irony
notes. It is utterly harmonious and sensual towards the finish, coveting its
rustic charm and leaving you entranced. Bottles were originally sold
inexpensively, though they are highly sought after nowadays. If you are lucky
enough to own a bottle of 1991, it is probably at its peak now. 94/Drink
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