2011 Miani Malvasia

What a treat it is to discover Miani’s 2011 Malvasia, one of the rarest wines proprietor Enzo Pontoni has ever made. Still remarkably fresh, the 2011 presents striking nuance, texture and finesse, all supported by intense beams of minerality that are unusual for a warm, early-ripening vintage that on paper was not especially well-suited to the production of top quality white wines. Peach and apricot pit nuances are pushed forward, followed by suggestions of slate, pear and white flowers. The 2011 is unctuous and resonant on the palate, but never heavy. This is an especially intense, ripe style of Malvasia, with varietal character in evidence mostly on the palate, while the aromatic dimensions of this indigenous grape lie more in the background, partially baked out by the warmth of the year.