1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
BY ANTONIO GALLONI |
Over the years, I have been fortunate to taste and drink more than my fair share of the 1990 Monfortino, but this is the first time I have tasted the wine at the winery, from a bottle that has never moved. At the time, 1990 was considered a warm vintage. Interestingly, today, the conditions of that year are more in line with what is thought of as normal. But 1990 was a game changer for Piedmont. Unusually rich and voluptuous Barolos attracted a new audience to the wines and region. As is often the case with warmer years, one of the questions is whether or not the wines will age. Giovanni Conterno’s epic 1990 Barolo Riserva Monfortino answers that question in emphatic terms.
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Over the years, I have been fortunate to taste and drink more than my fair share of the 1990 Monfortino, but this is the first time I have tasted the wine at the winery, from a bottle that has never moved.