Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Alluring 2023s and Benchmark 2010s

BY NICOLAS GREINACHER | NOVEMBER 14, 2024

Two thousand twenty-three in Châteauneuf-du-Pape was shaped by a series of weather challenges and distinctive growing conditions, setting the stage for what promises to be a delightful year for both reds and whites. In this article, I’ll explore the highs and lows of the season, from the autumn rains in 2022 that rejuvenated vineyards to intense summer heat waves that pushed vines to their limits. As I briefly look ahead to 2024, early signs point to more trials, with high mildew pressure and issues with Grenache due to coulure (poor fruit set).

This report also highlights the vital role of the Mistral wind throughout Châteauneuf-du-Pape's recent history. I’ll examine its impact on everything from disease control to frost prevention, and even how it shapes the daily temperature swings and vine health. As a special treat for Vinous readers, I’ll also revisit the exceptional 2010 vintage, exploring how the wines have matured and which of them are ready to be enjoyed.

Galets roulés covered Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards under a blue sky.

The 2023 Vintage

After the 2022 harvest, a rainy and mild autumn set in, with a little over 200 mm of rainfall from October 18th through the year's end, helping to replenish soil water reserves. A fairly dry winter followed, with significant temperature fluctuations: -2°C (28°F) on December 8, 16°C (61°F) on January 5, and 20.5°C (69°F) on February 18th, as reported by Paul-Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes. By April 4, all the vines had budded, with some already showing a few spread-out leaves. Eight days later, the first inflorescences appeared, but fierce Mistral winds caused some damage. In early May, temperatures remained mild, around 20°C (68°F) in the afternoon. The Mistral was particularly strong, at times reaching speeds over 100 km/h (62 mph). Flowering began on May 15, similar to 2022.

By early June, fruit set was progressing well. With temperatures regularly exceeding 30°C (86°F) and low rainfall, arid conditions were becoming more pronounced. By the end of the month daytime temperatures reached 35°C (95°F). Total rainfall for the first half of the year was around 200 mm. While there were a few outbreaks of downy mildew, the Mistral helped mitigate major damage. Temperatures climbed even higher in early July, with véraison starting around July 18, about a week later than in both 2022 and 2021. On August 22, temperatures peaked at 43°C (109°F), with nighttime lows ranging between 27°C (81°F) and 29°C (84°F). A much-needed 30 mm rain shower on August 26 brought some relief, followed by Mistral winds of 100km/h (62mph) that dried the vegetation and grapes.