Plundering Burgundy Past
BY NEAL MARTIN |
Have you ever seen the 1973 French-Italian classic La Grande Bouffe? The plotline is essentially four male friends lock themselves in a suburban house with all the food/wine/prostitutes necessary in order to eat/drink/fornicate themselves to death. Despite its morose, calorific and carnal nature, this celluloid masterpiece sprung to mind during a four-day Parisian trip that redefined the concept of hedonism – minus the suicidal pact and hookers. For sure, the bacchanal set a personal benchmark for libation, but to all intents and purposes, it was a weekend that celebrated friendship, Burgundy and the dying tradition of the “time-spanning restaurant wine list”.
Once upon a time there was a noble tradition of restaurants buying wines to cellar for a commensurate number of years in order to offer patrons the opportunity to drink mature fine wines at their plateau of maturity. This tradition now lies on the brink of extinction. Release prices prevent restaurants tying up cash in slowly maturing wines whilst their accountant warns that they will risk bankruptcy if they don’t monetize the inventory by the following tax deadline. When I started in the wine trade in the 1990s, there were still restaurants that boasted thoughtfully curated lists: veritable treasure troves of vintages old and new, the well known and esoteric. Nowadays there are a dwindling number of restaurants that have the means and wherewithal to buy and cellar over the long-term, the two most famous stalwarts are Berns in Florida and La Tour d’Argent in Paris.
In January, I visited La Tour d’Argent for the first time with a party of Far Eastern wine-loving friends making their own pilgrimage. They had spent months planning not which galleries to visit or sites to see, but exactly what wines to drink with military precision. Arriving at an ungodly early hour at St. Pancras, I found my fellow Brit lugging a heavy suitcase. It either contained a dead body or multiple bottles of DRC Montrachet. Fortunately, it was the latter. It was going to be that kind of weekend. La Tour d’Argent’s private room in the upper floor had been reserved for not one but three dinners, to the point where I am surprised we did not roll out our sleeping-bags and camp there the entire stay. The private room boasts a jaw-dropping, picture postcard vista over the Seine towards Notre Dame, a constant reminder that Paris will always be Europe’s most dazzling of cities. Perhaps there would be more romance had my wife accompanied me instead of a dozen men poring over the minutiae of the wine list, but hey, the romance here was always going to be of the fermented kind.
La Tour d’Argent is a restaurant of extremes. It is extremely old, dating back hundreds of years. It is extremely French. The panorama across Paris is extremely beautiful. The food is extremely expensive and given the prestige, to be honest, not the main attraction. However, the wine list is extremely sensational. It is beyond my wildest expectations, so comprehensive that it obliges a leather-bound hardback tome so large and heavy that I am certain it was last used when Gandalf needed to look up a spell. Fact: a sommelier once dropped it and broke his foot. Since time immemorial, La Tour d’Argent has bought wines upon release, buying directly from growers and cellaring until ready in a two-floor basement labyrinth (pictured on the Vinous homepage link). Obviously I have not perused every wine list in the world, but this must be unparalleled, especially apropos the Côte d’Or, page after page of eye-popping verticals from famous names and lesser-seen growers. Two facets of the list take my breath away. First, the reasonable prices if prepared to pay a modest amount of euros and secondly the knowledge that every bottle is of perfect provenance irrespective of age. Surprisingly, the head sommelier is not French, as the name “David Ridgway” implies. David is British and having worked at La Tour d’Argent since 1981, is a fixture of the restaurant as much as the cellar itself. I suspect that he has never been “worked” as much as when our party descended! I heard that David is due to retire next year – difficult shoes to fill.
The cellar at La Tour d’Argent
There is little point in describing each wine, but I do recommend reading the tasting notes because you will probably never see such a cluster of legends knowing that all have impeccable provenance. Though undeniably there was a sense of hedonism over the four days, it transpired to be a lesson in mature Burgundy via its most famous growers. Though there were a plethora of winemakers to choose from, when I collated my extensive notes, they focused on a small clutch of Domaines: Coche-Dury, Méo-Camuzet, Leroy/d’Auvenay and Dujac.
No Domaine de la Romanée-Conti?
Apart from my friend’s bottles of Montrachet, the mark-ups for Aubert de Villaine’s wines were such that they made little financial sense when there were so many relative bargains elsewhere, from Domaines whose wines are more elusive. Case in point, try finding the 1991 Richebourg from Méo-Camuzet and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and see which takes longer.
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Question: What do you get if you cross the best wine list in the world, mature Burgundy of perfect provenance, a party of Burgundy-obsessed hedonistic wine-lovers from the Far East, one patient sommelier, one Vinous scribe and four days in Paris? Answer: A journey through Burgundy at its finest and a reminder that humble bottles can turn out to be the most memorable.
Show all the wines (sorted by score)
Producers in this Article
- Château Rayas
- Christophe Roumier (Domaine Georges Roumier)
- Domaine Armand Rousseau
- Domaine Arnaud Ente
- Domaine d'Auvenay
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
- Domaine des Comtes Lafon
- Domaine Dujac
- Domaine François Raveneau
- Domaine Ghislaine-Barthod
- Domaine Guy Roulot
- Domaine Henri Gouges
- Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury
- Domaine Leflaive
- Domaine Leroy
- Domaine Méo-Camuzet/Méo-Camuzet Frère et Soeur
- Domaine Pierre Morey
- Domaine Ponsot
- Domaine René Engel
- Joseph Drouhin
- Michel Bonnefond (Christophe Roumier)
- Trotanoy
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2017
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- Domaine Leroy: The 2014s from Bottle (Mar 2017)
- Cellar Favorite: 1989 Domaine G. Roumier Chambolle-Musigny Amoureuses 1er Cru (Mar 2017)
- 2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)
- Cellar Favorite: 1990 Domaine G. Roumier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru (Feb 2017)
2016
- Marquis d’Angerville: Volnay Clos des Ducs 1920-2010 (Dec 2016)
- Cellar Favorite: 1978 Maison Leroy Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru (Oct 2016)
- Mâconnais: The Headspinning 2015s and The Classic 2014s (Oct 2016)
- The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)
- J. F. Coche-Dury & Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (Sep 2016)
- The 2015 White Burgundies: A Year of Sunshine (Sep 2016)
- Chablis Gets the Côte de Beaune Treatment from Mother Nature (Jul 2016)
- The Awful 2016 Spring in Chablis (Jul 2016)
- Domaine Rousseau Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin (Jun 2016)
- Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair: La Romanée 1865 – 2014 (Mar 2016)
- The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)
- Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival 2015 (Mar 2016)
- The Glorious 2002 Red Burgundies (Feb 2016)
- The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)
2015
- The Mâconnais on the Move (Dec 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: Checking in on the Lafon 2010s (Dec 2015)
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1982-2012 (Nov 2015)
- The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)
- Chablis: 2014 & 2013 (Aug 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: Three from Domaine Leflaive (Aug 2015)
- Lalou Bize-Leroy: Celebrating Sixty Years at Maison Leroy (May 2015)
- The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)
- The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2011 Échézeaux – Grand Cru (Mar 2015)
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Romanée-Conti and Montrachet (Feb 2015)
- The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)
2014
- Cellar Favorite: 1995 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes - Grand Cru (Dec 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: 2000 Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Bèze – Grand Cru (Dec 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: 2000 J.F. Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Dec 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaine G. Roumier 1978 Musigny – Grand Cru (Nov 2014)
- Vinous Table: Restaurant F and B, Beaune (Sep 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1988-2004 (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune (Sep 2014)
- 2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Hostellerie des Clos, Chablis (Aug 2014)
- 2013 Chablis: Living on the Edge (Aug 2014)
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Focus on Grands-Échézeaux and Richebourg (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Burgundy Charity Auction and Dinner (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Musique & Vin (Jul 2014)
- 1964 Leroy: Simply Timeless (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Le Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet (Jul 2014)
- An Update From Burgundy (Jul 2014)
- Chablis 2013 and 2012 (Jul 2014)
- 2010 Red Burgundy: Essays in Terroir (May 2014)
- 2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)
- 2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)
- 2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Jan 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: 1966 Maison Leroy Beaune (Jan 2015)
- 2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)
2013
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: An Essay in Terroir (Dec 2013)
- The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Sep 2013)
- 2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)
- Chablis 2012: Energy, Power and Class (Aug 2013)
- Vinous Table: Ma Cuisine, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)
- 2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Jun 2013)
- Jadot: Beaune Theurons 1970-1997 (Jun 2013)
- Jadot: Corton-Charlemagne 1973-1996 (Jun 2013)
- 2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Domaine Meo-Camuzet's Vosne-Romanee aux Brulees (Mar 2013)
- 2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)
2012
- 2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)
- Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)
- Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Aug 2012)
- Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Jul 2012)
- The 2002 Burgundies at Eleven Madison Park (May 2012)
- The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)
- 2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)
- The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)
- 2010 Red Burgundies (Jan 2012)
2011
2010
2009
2008
2007
2006
2005
2004
2002
2000
1999