Chablis 2012: Energy, Power and Class

I was deeply impressed with the 2012s I tasted in Chablis during my annual trip to the region this past June. The 2012s bring together high levels of ripeness (by Chablis standards) with equally bright, vibrant acidities, a combination that is dazzling. Today, I see 2012 as a more powerful if slightly less polished version of 2010. The wines are also less classically austere and tightly wound than the 2010s, and will likely drink better earlier because of their richness. At the Petit Chablis and Chablis level, the 2012s are unusually generous and pliant, not a bad thing for wines meant to be enjoyed upon release. Overall, the 2012s are a big step up from the 2011s in terms of overall quality and consistency. The finest examples are drop-dead gorgeous.

The 2012 Growing Season

Mother Nature threw the book at growers in 2012. The spring brought with it a devastating frost that was particularly punishing to early-flowering sites on the Right Bank, where all of the Grand Crus are located. Losses of 30-40% were not uncommon in many of the top 1er and Grand Cru vineyards. Yields were much closer to normal on the Left Bank.

Poor weather drew out the flowering to several weeks and also reduced potential yields even further. Heat, and dry conditions in particular, returned with a vengeance later in the summer, especially in August. Some growers reported burned fruit that required sorting, others described the grapes as thick-skinned with little juice. The harvest took place towards the end of September, pretty close to the norm, and a good few weeks later than 2011. Several growers reported very slow fermentations, especially malolactic fermentations. As a result, a few 2012s were still quite raw and less polished from barrel than they typically are.

The 2011s From Bottle