Essays in Chardonnay: J. F. Coche-Dury & Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
BY ANTONIO GALLONI |
All too often, white wines are relegated to second-tier status, a sort of warm up for the reds that inevitably follow during most meals. I have long believed that white wines deserve a little more respect than that. Over the years, many of the most riveting experiences I have had have been with aged white wines. The objective of this tasting was to take a look at two of Burgundy’s benchmark whites across a number of vintages in order to gain a better understanding of how the style of the wines is expressed in those years. A few bottles were added at the last minute, so not all wines were tasted in pairs. For that reason, the notes are presented here by domaine, even though the wines were tasted from oldest to youngest in pairs where possible.
Sadly, in recent times, buying white Burgundy to cellar has become a risky proposition given the region’s well-documented issues with premature oxidation. Among other things, this means an entire generation of younger wine drinkers might never have a chance to experience the glory of aged white Burgundy. I am happy to report we did not have any prematurely oxidized wines on this night.
Domaine Jean-François
Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne
Jean-François Coche and his son, Raphaël, represent the essence of Burgundy’s vigneron culture. Unfazed by their rabid demand for their wines, the Coches remain down to earth and humble. Rare tastings and visits are granted only in the evening, when most producers are already done with their workday, as the family gives priority to their work in the vineyards during the day.
The Coches own about a third of a hectare in Corton-Charlemagne. The vines were originally planted in the early 1960s. Coche’s first vintage of the Charlemagne was 1986. Like all of the top whites here, the Corton-Charlemagne undergoes a long, slow élevage of nearly two years and is sold only when the Coches deem the wine ready. The Coche style emphasizes crystalline focus, energy and tension. When young, the wines often show an element of reduction that is one of the Coche signatures.
In this tasting, what surprised me most was how long the Charlemagne really needs to be at its most expressive. At a time when so many white Burgundies offer their best drinking early, the Charlemagne is exactly the opposite. It is a wine that takes time, both in bottle, but also in the glass. When young, what comes through most is Coche’s distinctive house style, while the personality and pedigree of the vintage emerge later. All of these wines, tasted after several hours, were even more expressive, vivid and nuanced than they were when first opened.
All too often, white wines are relegated to second-tier status, a sort of warm up for the reds that inevitably follow during most meals. I have long believed that white wines deserve a little more respect than that. Over the years, many of the most riveting experiences I have had have been with aged white wines. The objective of this tasting was to take a look at two of Burgundy’s benchmark whites across a number of vintages in order to gain a better understanding of how the style of the wines is expressed in those years.
