Domaine Georges Roumier Part 2: Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru
BY NEAL MARTIN |
The second part of my examination of Roumier centres on a vertical tasting originally due to start with Christophe Roumier’s maiden 1993. The bottles were, instead, accidentally consumed and enjoyed by thirsty “bystanders”. I cherish the thought that the wines fulfilled their raison d’être of being appreciated, liberated from analytical examination and pontification that is part and parcel of drinking Burgundy these days. The whole debacle put a smile on my face. Consequently, the purview was a complete run of Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras from 1999 to 2011, with three interpolated Les Cras from Domaine Ghislaine-Barthod to keep this taster on his toes.
A brief
word about Roumier’s holdings in Les Cras. Roumier owns 1.76-hectares of vines
divided into two plots, the larger at the northern extremity bordering Les
Fuées and a smaller plot towards the southeast. The soil is heavy marl. The
vines were planted in 1961, so you could argue that they are at the “peak of
their powers,” not too old but with experience under their belt. In terms of
winemaking, it’s pretty straightforward. Roumier sorts fruit in the vineyard
and uses a sorting table installed at the winery reception. Depending on the
vintage, he usually adds a small number of stems before fermentation in wooden
vessels after a cool soak. As with all his cuvées, Roumier is prudent with the
use of new oak.
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In this second look at Christophe Roumier, the limelight shines upon his Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru. With over a dozen vintages tasted blind, this tasting reveals a winemaker unafraid to translate growing seasons as they are.
