Oldies But Goldies: Bouchard Père 1892-2012
BY NEAL MARTIN |
“Oldies but goldies” is a term commonly used in music vernacular. It is a sepia-tinged song from bygone days that retains its virtues and never grows old. Of course, the phrase means different things to different people depending on their age. Runaway by Del Shannon or Louie Louie by The Kingsmen fit the description for this writer. You’ll have yours. When it comes to wine, the term brings to mind bottles with decent mileage, not necessarily from the most prestigious vineyards or growers, nor the apotheosis of fermented grape juice. Yet, these wines warm the cockles of the heart and stand the test of time. What exactly confers longevity? Received wisdom is that it’s predicated by the most auspicious vineyards and/or winemakers, but experience confirms time and again that one factor overrides all others: provenance.
Provenance determines the end of a bottle’s mortal coil.
Notice the tell-tale, blue-tinged bottle of
1942, when glass was hard to come by and bottlers used whatever they could
find.
A certain baker’s dozen poured one Friday night in November 2023 was of impeccable provenance since none had ever moved from the bins of Bouchard Père & Fils. They lay in their bins, oblivious to the tumultuous events of the last century, maturing out of sight in the damp and dark, wondering when, if ever, their martyrdom would come. A pre-prandial tour of the labyrinthine library cellar at Bouchard’s headquarters in Beaune confirmed that.
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Bouchard Père & Fils own one of the deepest Burgundy libraries of vintages back to the 19th century. This article recounts last November’s dinner when bottles with years ending in two stretching back through decades were opened.
