2017 Domaine Leroy: Elegance, Finesse & Grace 

BY ANTONIO GALLONI |

Burgundy is where I truly learned to taste wine. It is the best school. Essentially one variety for white, one for red and that’s it. The rest is all about place, about trying to understand how the attributes of a site are expressed in what is in the glass. Nowhere is that more true than at Domaine Leroy, where everything that Burgundy represents, its purest essence, is dialed up all the way. 

The barrique of Grand Crus awaits.

The barrique of Grand Crus awaits.

It’s always fascinating to taste through the new vintage with Lalou Bize-Leroy, known to everyone as simply Lalou, because she holds a historic memory of places, vintages and people that stretches back many decades, to the 1950s at the very least. She was also the first grower to espouse the principles of biodynamics and other concepts that are now considered the norm. Even today, when so many domaines have gained international prestige and young growers continue to emerge on to the world stage, Lalou Bize-Leroy towers over Burgundy, her every move in the vineyard and every decision studied and discussed in great detail. Readers who want to learn more about Lalou’s remarkable life and career may want to revisit some of my previous articles, all of which are linked below.

The Domaine Leroy cellar in Vosne-Romanée. The small tanks in the background hold the topping wine for each of the cuv

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Burgundy is where I truly learned to taste wine. It is the best school. Essentially one variety for white, one for red and that’s it. The rest is all about place, about trying to understand how the attributes of a site are expressed in what is in the glass. Nowhere is that more true than at Domaine Leroy, where everything that Burgundy represents, its purest essence, is dialed up all the way.