Burgundy Under the Radar

BY NEAL MARTIN | JULY 17, 2018

Aware that some Burgundy lovers might point out that they have known some of the growers included in this report since they produced their first vintage back in 1903, nevertheless, Burgundy remains a vast ocean of growers beyond the most famous names. Nothing gives me more pleasure than foraging for winemakers unknown to myself, or those that I have never visited. There are innumerable “under-the-radar” growers in Burgundy, and I use that term knowing that some oenophile’s radars are better than others. There is always one more grower that you have to visit around the corner. When it comes to Burgundy there is no full stop.

Back in early March I attended the biannual “Les Grands Jours” week of tastings held around the region and organized by the BIVB, who, I must say, do an excellent job. This is a golden opportunity to search through lesser-known appellations such as the Côte Chalonnaise and meet face-to-face with “lesser spotted” growers that you have heard about, but never seen. Usually I avoid such exhibitions since it is not a productive environment to taste: too many people, too much noise, too many rugby scrums as people jostle for the next pour. Therefore I use tactics: arrive when the doors open and it is quiet, avoid crowds and head for the more spartanly attended tastings. Consequently, I chose to forego the enticing Meursault tasting since that would inevitably be crammed and strolled up to Clos de Vougeot at the crack of dawn for the “Vosne Millésime” tasting (pictured on the Vinous homepage) to taste in the quiet first hour. Indeed by nine o’clock there was already a 200-metre long queue and in a scene straight out of a nightclub, bouncers refused entry to attendees not wearing the correct badge. I half-expected a glitter-ball once inside. Not every day was spent at Les Grands Jours, so I used these to visit some new names from up in Gevrey-Chambertin all the way down to Rully.

The simple rule was this: if I visit your Domaine regularly then thank you, but I am not going to taste your wine today. There are just under 40 growers in this report, very few of whom have appeared on Vinous before now. I have also handpicked several growers who I visited or whose wines deserved more background detail, which you will find below. I leave it up to you to sift through the information and attendant notes and expand your Burgundy horizons. Who knows, maybe save yourself a bit of money with better-value alternative and start acquainting yourself with a future star early in their career.

Domaine Tupinier-Bautista (Mercurey)

Tupinier-Bautista has long been one of my favourite Côte Chalonnaise producers based down in Mercurey. “Manu” Bautista took over from his father Jacques Tupinier in 1997 and ratcheted up the quality across the Domaine’s 10 hectares of vine. With a brand new modern winery built in 2016, there is no doubt that Tupinier-Bautista will continue producing some of the finest Mercurey wines. There is an attention to detail here that sets them apart from other producers and, contrary to Manu’s ursine appearance (he looks like the kind of guy you wouldn’t want to pick a fight with), the wines are intense and built to last, yet are often more graceful and broad-shouldered than their peers. Along with Domaine François Raquillet, this Domaine demonstrates that Mercurey can produce excellent, well-priced wines. 

Domaine Ninot (Rully)

Domaine Ninot is a nice discovery during my tastings of several Côte Chalonnaise producers down in Mercurey. Erell Ninot, who presented the wines, and her brother Flavien can trace the family's winemaking roots back to the 14th century. Their own tenure commenced in 2005 upon taking over from their father Pierre-Marie, their grandfather having been one of the pioneering names in Rully. Flavien tends the vines whilst Erell oversees the winemaking duties. Her talents were recognized when she was voted the most promising young winemaker in the annual “Les Jeunes Talents” competition. Together, they tend 13 hectares of vine in Rully and Mercurey (picked by hand with rigorous sorting), many of which illustrate that they can be a source of well-crafted, delicious and great value wines that come highly recommended.