Orbiting Satellites: Irancy & Saint-Bris 2020 & 2021
BY NEAL MARTIN |
Before clocking out for the day and inspired after putting the final touches to the Norwegian fjords, God created a small amphitheatre a few kilometres southwest of Chablis. Perchance adding a little drama to the rolling landscape. Unwittingly, He created a meso-climate that is warmer than its surroundings, rendering its steep slopes suitable for red varieties in a sea of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Today, Irancy is an unspoiled, tranquil village that feels secluded, despite its proximity to Chablis, encompassed by serried rows of vine and orchards. It’s a “lesser-spotted” appellation that is finally becoming more noticed as increasing numbers seek less budget-crippling alternatives to BBB’s (Burgundy beyond budget).
The village of Irancy nestled at the foot of the amphitheatre.
Since last year’s report on the 190.5-hectare appellation was well-received, during this year’s trip, I, once again, asked the BIVB to organise a blind tasting of producers. This year, I threw off my duvet early in order to walk around vineyards, before ringing the doorbells of two of Irancy’s leading producers: Benoît Cantin and Thierry Richoux. (For a brief introduction to its history, vineyards and viticulture, I recommend reading that report.)
Focusing on the 2020 and 2021 vintages, I found that the former really suited Irancy’s aforementioned meso-climate. Generally, the standard is above those I found in 2018 and 2019 as its slightly cooler summer reined in some of the excess its wines can display. Perusing the spec sheets, there is now a dominance of pure Pinot Noir over the inferior César that could dominate blends before appellation rules were introduced, since limited to 10% of the blend. Frankly, it adds nothing to a blend, and if anything, detracts from it, not unlike adding bagpipes to a violin solo.
There is still some way to go. I found some under-performing wines that come across rather saccharine and candied. Irancy’s potential is consistently shown by its undisputed leading producer, Thierry Richoux, where the tousle-haired winemaker is passing the baton to his sons, Félix and Gabin, who joined in 2013. Their 19 hectares of vine are located in some of Irancy’s prime climats such as Cailles, Veaupassiot and Palottes. The Richouxs are meticulous. Their vineyards were certified organic by Ecocert in 2010. Biodynamics was introduced the following year albeit without certification for the moment. “We usually prune at the beginning of December,” Thierry Richoux explains. “I would like to start later, but we have 21 hectares and so we have to finish in a good time.” Yields are kept low. “The figures are quite easy to remember,” Gabin Richoux tells me. “They were 30hL/ha in 2019, 20hL/ha in 2020 and then just 10hL/ha in 2021 picked Monday to Friday from 24 September…” I almost quipped that mathematically the Richoux’s should expect nothing in 2022, but that would be tempting fate. Incidentally, if you think those figures are low, the average yield in the frost-affected 2016 vintage was a paltry 8hL/ha.
