1979 Domaine Georges Roumier Clos
Vougeot Grand Cru

BY NEAL MARTIN | JULY 1, 2019 You could
make a strong argument that this Burgundy is the most significant of all my
contributions to Vinous’ Cellar Favorites column. Maybe without it, things
would have been different. I had been considering my move to Vinous for a while
but wanted to seek the advice of a trusted confidante. We met at a low-key
Italian restaurant in Mayfair where we could talk openly and without a
sommelier acquaintance in earshot. Helping my thought process was a beautiful
mature Burgundy. Christophe Roumier’s métayage
in Clos Vougeot consisted of two parcels and began with his grandfather in the
early 1950s, continuing until the last vintage in 1996, whereupon it
transferred to Laurent Roumier.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1562005419115-image+%2867%29.png"> 

The 1979 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru displays
some bricking on the rim, but the core is quite youthful. The enticing bouquet
features mulberry, cola and almost garrigue-like
scents that draw you in. Over a couple of hours, it does lose some of its
initial vigor, but it holds up well considering age and vintage. The palate is
medium-bodied, perhaps a little richer than I would have anticipated, and displays
impressive depth. It is clearly well balanced and has retained plenty of fruit
over almost four decades. This is just a delicious Clos Vougeot. (By the time
we finished the bottle, my mind was made up.) 92/Drink 2019-2029.

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