2022 Kei Shiogai Bourgogne Blanc

BY NEAL MARTIN | JULY 29, 2024

A couple of years ago, I ordered the maiden Kei Shiogai 2020 Bourgogne Blanc En Pellans from a restaurant list, as members of the fourth estate are persona non grata at the winery in Beaune. I was interested. Sadly, the bottle left me indifferent. We eventually ordered another white and left Shiogai’s undrunk. Based on Shiogai’s reaction, which I was privy to, it seems like my tasting note did not go down particularly well. I understand the reaction, but I believe that all wines should be open to evaluation, especially those with high price tags and no established reputation. Rarity doesn’t necessarily taste of anything.

So, when dining in Chablis recently, I decided to try another bottle. I don’t bear any grudges or agendas. It would get fair treatment. Let’s not beat about the bush: €100 for a Bourgogne Blanc would be considered over-priced in the eyes of many, merely compounding the Côte d’Or’s image as a region whose fruit only ferments for the wealthy. Interestingly, I notice a message printed on the label that reads: “Ce vin est destiné à être vendu au prix final de 90 Euros”. I’ve never seen that before. How should that be interpreted?

1. Pity him. Unfortunately, if you buy fruit in Burgundy, you are at the mercy of sellers’ prices.