2010 Domaine Armand Rousseau Bourgogne Blanc
BY NEAL MARTIN |
Every now and again, so-called unicorn wines trot onto my Twitter or Instagram feed, compelling me to yell into my smartphone: “It is not a bloody unicorn wine. How can it be? Unicorns don’t exist!” The term is misapplied to bottles that are rarely seen, and true, I rarely see unicorns – not unless I’m driving down a country lane and spot a pony with an ice-cream cone stuck to its forehead. Unicorns only exist in fiction: in Lewis Carroll’s Through the Looking Glass or in Rick Deckard’s dreams; My Little Pony or Princess Bubblegum’s Korean-speaking steed Lady Rainicorn in Adventure Time. All cute and lovely, but none of them exist. Ergo, bottles declared “ULTIMATE UNICORN” in capital letters and a small armada of exclamation marks on social media are no such things. They are more like wild snow leopards, creatures that you have a very small chance of seeing, but that really are prowling about somewhere.
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I am at Domaine Rousseau and ask Cyrielle Rousseau about the mysterious Bourgogne Blanc. She confirms that her family produced it for a number of years from a parcel in Gevrey-Chambertin, solely for personal consumption or to give to friends and associates. They no longer make it.
