1957 Domaine
Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 21, 2020Over the last two
decades I have visited practically all the major domaines in the Côte d’Or.
There is one glaring and unforgivable omission: Ramonet. During Hospices
weekend last November, I thought that finally
I would at least shake hands with one of the family, when a friend, Mr. O,
invited me to join him for the opening of a “special bottle” with Noël Ramonet.
Unfortunately, I had a prearranged tasting that Saturday morning, so I was
denied once again, but at least I was
able to get down to Chassagne-Montrachet and taste the bottle at retail shop Caveau
de Chassagne later that morning.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1579622211565-1957+B%C3%A2tard+Montrachet+Ramonet_CF_copy.jpg"> 

The 1957 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is
easily the oldest bottle I have encountered from the domaine. This vintage was
blighted by a severe late-spring frost that almost entirely decimated the
Chardonnay crop. I discovered that it was also a significant vintage for
Ramonet because it marks the first time that Pierre Ramonet’s brother Claude
helped make the wine. Claude Ramonet is not as well-known as Pierre and his
grandsons Noël and Jean-Claude. Claude never had any children and passed away
in 1977. Presumably he worked alongside his brother, who ran the domaine up
until 1984. The bottle was tatty in appearance, much of the label torn away
over the years, though thankfully with sufficient information left intact to
identify year and cuvée, along with Ramonet’s distinctive crest. First I
noticed the wine’s refulgence. Yes, there was a slight burnished hue, but the
glass seemed to glow. The bouquet remains vigorous, offering dried honey,
marmalade and overripe satsumas, as well as traces of melted wax and lanolin.
The palate does not disguise some oxidation, which began creeping into the nose
during the 15–20 minutes I spent with the wine, touches of flor developing with time. There is impressive weight and
concentration, and plenty of energy given the wine’s age. The finish is quite
robust, nutty and overtly saline, though frayed by the passing years; it does
not quite convey the class of the aromatics. Overall, this 62-year-old
Bâtard-Montrachet defies the traumatic growing season of its birth and, decades
later, manages to leave an indelible impression – a wine that has decayed but
retains a firm foundation. 92/Drink
2020-2028.

My thanks to Mr. O for inviting me down to
taste this rare bottle.

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