This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis
BY NEAL MARTIN |
My original intention
for this article was to shepherd together three Morey-Saint-Denis–based
producers that had organized vertical tastings in London last year: Domaine Dujac,
Taupenot-Merme and Domaine de l’Arlaud. I assumed that the resulting article
would get to the nitty-gritty of this appellation. Or that was the plan, anyway.
When I assembled all the tasting notes, I realized that in fact, Taupenot-Merme
was the only grower that had showcased a cuvée from Morey-Saint-Denis. Dujac
had opted for a complete vertical of their Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts and l’Arlaud
their Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes (not that I have any complaints on either
count). No worries; I would add one of the best-known producers of
Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Robert Groffier, since Nicolas Groffier had recently
shown me his splendid 2016s. I examined the notes and realized that Groffier, located
right in the middle of Morey-Saint-Denis, does not actually own a single vine
within the appellation.
Nicolas Groffier, pictured outside the winery at Domaine Robert Groffier, has improved the wines in recent years
So, even though all four producers are based in Morey-Saint-Denis, I ended up with an article that seems to be trying to ignore the appellation. That is a pity. Morey-Saint-Denis is often overshadowed by Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south, and I would have liked to address that imbalance. On the other hand, the wines in question should be of interest to Burgundy lovers, not least because Taupenot-Merme and Domaine de l'Arlaud remain reasonable values within the market and deserve attention. Also, if it is any compensation, readers who do need their fix of Morey-Saint-Denis can read my article on Clos de Tart or Stephen Tanzer’s upcoming piece on Clos des Lambrays.
In the meantime, let us begin with one of the most famous producers in Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Dujac.
Domaine Dujac
Alec Seysses flew to London to oversee a nearly complete vertical tasting of Dujac’s Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts. The domaine owns 1.57 hectares in Malconsorts (out of a total 5.86 hectares), acquired when they purchased the Charles Thomas estate together with Etienne de Montille. Aux Malconsorts enjoys a propitious location, adjacent to La Tâche, Vosne-Romanée Les Charmes and Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Boudots to the south. Dujac’s maiden vintage was in 2005, although it was not shown at this tasting. I asked Alex whether their approach to the vineyard has altered in recent years, and he replied, “Next to nothing has changed.” This cru usually contains a high percentage of stems, and is fermented in stainless steel and matured in French oak, around 65-85% new, for about 18 months.
Morey-Saint-Denis does not get its fair share of coverage vis-à-vis other Burgundy appellations, so when three Morey-based producers showcased their wines in London, I looked forward to redressing the imbalance. That was the plan. It didn’t quite work out that way...
