Burgundy With (A Bit of) Age: 2000-2014
BY NEAL MARTIN |
The “Fascration” of Burgundy
Time has ticked away at the same pace since it began, decelerating only when one approaches the speed of light – or while waiting for Bordeaux châteaux to release their wines en primeur. Time and wine are inextricable insofar as all but non-vintage wines are the result of temporally defined growing seasons that govern quality, reputation, monetary value, and how soon you and I might decide to crack them open. When to extract cork from bottle is a subjective and inexact science. The only certainty is that all wine eventually turns to vinegar; some of it just gets there quicker. Experienced professionals can only offer flexible drinking windows that will “open” and “close” depending on the factors we believe influence longevity.
Is ageworthiness governed by terroir or vine age? Is it determined by fruit concentration or acidity? Tannins or balance? I could compose a thesis on the subject and still be wrong. Empirically – that is to say, by drinking the stuff – I aver that tannic structure and acidity are fundamental, although in reality, all the aforementioned factors are interconnected and determine vinous life span. It is never predictable; we can only conjecture.
I find the evolutionary path of red Bordeaux easier to estimate than that of red Burgundy. Pinot Noir is more capricious. It follows its own route, and not necessarily the one initially projected. In fact, sometimes Burgundy seems determined to make you look like the worst clairvoyant who ever lived. Look how 1993s blossomed in their later years, or how the jury remains out on the 1996s. That is all part of the fascination and frustration of Burgundy – the frascration of Burgundy! Factor in premature oxidation with respect to the whites, and potential longevity becomes a sick joke as your expensive Grand Cru deteriorates into something resembling dishwater, but with less cleaning power. No wonder many people obviate risk by martyring white Burgundy in its infancy, or simply looking elsewhere – in my case, toward South Africa and New Zealand. There was a classic case of pre-mox when two bottles of Bâtard-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive were served blind, the refulgent 1996 appearing a decade younger than the turbid, amber-hued 2008. You will find both notes in this report.
How old do you like your Burgundy? Would you try your luck on this 1921 Corton-Charlemagne from Morin? See Part Two to find out how it tasted.
The Vault
In recent months I have been hoarding what might be termed "mature Burgundy" notes that span decades. I use the word "mature" in the loosest sense, including wines that have spent three years or more in bottle. My vault contained 500 tasting notes, a gallimaufry of famous and unknown (even extinct) domaines. Revered and excoriated vintages. Jaw-dropping legends rubbing shoulders with quirky bottles unlikely to be seen again. If there is one lesson to take away from these notes, it’s this: Never dismiss a bottle based on vintage or producer. Take a vintage like 2000: conventional wisdom is that the millennial year was all about Bordeaux and not Burgundy, yet I am discovering plenty of gems, and as a whole, the wines appear to be maturing in bottle better than once presumed. Take a grower like Seguin Manuel: ancient bottles might not have the cachet of Rousseau or Roumier, yet they represent some of the most profound examples of mature Burgundy that I have tasted.
It’s time these long overdue notes see the light of day. Having cleaved away those pertaining to verticals that merit standalone articles and individual bottles worthy of Cellar Favorites, I divided the remaining notes into two parts. This first part covers vintages from 2014 back to 2000. The second part stretches back from 1999 to the dawn of time. Well, not quite that far. Let’s just say, long before you were born. The reason is that a majority of tasting notes in Part One derive from a series of mini-horizontals that wine writer (and now winemaker) Sarah Marsh MW organized over recent months. These are 2000, 2001 and 2002 reds, plus 2008 whites. All bottles came directly from domaines' cellars. In addition, you will find many tasting notes on 2011 reds assembled by Flint Wines and 2013 reds courtesy of Geodhuis & Co. These are augmented by countless dinners, special tastings such as a Gevrey-Chambertin showcase in Hong Kong and a Clos de Vougeot tasting in Clos Vougeot during Les Grands Jours in March 2018.
As Antonio Galloni mentioned in a recent Cellar Favorite, updates on recent vintages are often overlooked. As much as possible, we taste the final wines, and in my case, I prefer to leave them another 12 months to let them settle, hence my annual Burgfest reports. Often those same wines might not be re-examined unless they are lucky enough to appear in a 10-year retrospective or vertical. Yet in terms of consumption, vintages between three and eight years old are the most commonly consumed. Request a mature bottle in a Beaune restaurant and the sommelier is likely to dust off a vintage between 2011 and 2014. That has become the diluted definition of maturity, and it is the only choice, because any restaurant listing older vintages, particularly with reasonable mark-ups, will trigger a red alert across social media, and in the blink of an eye the list is plucked free of irreplaceable wines.
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With in excess of 500 Burgundy tasting notes accumulated over many months, it was high time they see the light of day. This first of a two-part report broaches the 21st century, including mini-horizontals of several vintages at all levels of the hierarchy and unsurprisingly, all levels of quality.
Show all the wines (sorted by score)
Producers in this Article
- Albert Bichot (Domaine du Clos Frantin)
- Bouchard Père & Fils
- Camille Giroud
- Caroline L'Estimée
- Château de la Tour
- Christophe Roumier (Domaine Georges Roumier)
- Domaine A-F Gros
- Domaine Anne Gros
- Domaine Armand Rousseau
- Domaine Arnaud Ente
- Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
- Domaine Ballot-Millot
- Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils
- Domaine Blain-Gagnard
- Domaine Bonneau du Martray
- Domaine Boyer-Martenot
- Domaine Bruno Clair
- Domaine Capitain-Gagnerot
- Domaine Chandon de Briailles
- Domaine Chanson
- Domaine Chavy-Chouet
- Domaine Christian Sérafin
- Domaine Claude Dugat
- Domaine Comte Armand
- Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
- Domaine Confuron-Cotétidot
- Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot
- Domaine Daniel Rion
- Domaine de Courcel
- Domaine de la Pousse d'Or
- Domaine de l'Arlot
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
- Domaine de la Vougeraie
- Domaine de Montille
- Domaine Denis Bachelet
- Domaine Denis Mortet
- Domaine des Comtes Lafon
- Domaine des Lambrays
- Domaine Didier Fornerol
- Domaine Drouhin-Laroze
- Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
- Domaine Dujac
- Domaine Duroché
- Domaine Emmanuel Rouget
- Domaine Etienne Sauzet
- Domaine Faiveley
- Domaine Follin-Arbelet
- Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard
- Domaine Forey Père et Fils
- Domaine Fourrier/Jean-Marie Fourrier
- Domaine François Bertheau
- Domaine François Confuron-Gindre
- Domaine François Lamarche
- Domaine François Raveneau
- Domaine Gagnard-Delagrange
- Domaine Geantet-Pansiot
- Domaine Georges Lignier et Fils
- Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg
- Domaine Georges Roumier
- Domaine Gérard Raphet
- Domaine Ghislaine-Barthod
- Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur
- Domaine Guy Roulot
- Domaine Henri Germain et Fils
- Domaine Henri Gouges
- Domaine Henri Jayer
- Domaine Hubert Lamy
- Domaine Hubert Lignier/Hubert Lignier
- Domaine Hubert & Olivier Lamy
- Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat
- Domaine Humbert Frères
- Domaine Jacques Prieur
- Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet
- Domaine Jean-Claude Ramonet
- Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury
- Domaine Jean Grivot
- Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy
- Domaine Jean-Luc & Paul Aegerter
- Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
- Domaine Jean-Marc Bouley
- Domaine Jean-Marc Fourrier
- Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot
- Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard
- Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet
- Domaine Jean Tardy
- Domaine J-F Mugnier
- Domaine Lamy-Pillot
- Domaine Leflaive
- Domaine Leroy
- Domaine Lignier-Michelot
- Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils
- Domaine Louis Carillon & Fils
- Domaine/Maison Henri Boillot
- Domaine/Maison Vincent Girardin
- Domaine Manuel Olivier
- Domaine Marc Colin
- Domaine Marquis d'Angerville
- Domaine Méo-Camuzet/Méo-Camuzet Frère et Soeur
- Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils
- Domaine Michel Gros
- Domaine Michel Lafarge
- Domaine Michelot
- Domaine Olivier Leflaive
- Domaine Patrick Javillier
- Domaine Paul Pillot
- Domaine Perrot-Minot
- Domaine Philippe Colin
- Domaine Pierre Damoy
- Domaine Pierre Morey
- Domaine Ponsot
- Domaine Rapet Père & Fils
- Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure
- Domaine Rémi Jobard
- Domaine René Engel
- Domaine Robert Arnoux
- Domaine Robert Chevillon
- Domaine Robert Dubois et Fils
- Domaine Robert Groffier
- Domaine Rossignol-Trapet
- Domaine Sérafin Père & Fils
- Domaine Simon Bize et Fils
- Domaine Stéphane Magnien
- Domaine Sylvain Cathiard & Fils
- Domaine Sylvain Loichet
- Domaine Sylvie Esmonin
- Domaine Taupenot-Merme
- Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
- Domaine Tollot-Beaut
- Domaine Vincent Bouzereau
- Joseph Drouhin
- Maison Champy
- Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
- Seguin-Manuel
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2018
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2017
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- The Undiscovered Burgundy (Jun 2017)
- Vinous Table: Au Fil du Zinc, Chablis, France (May 2017)
- Domaine Lignier: Clos de la Roche 1978-2014 (May 2017)
- The 2001 Red Burgundies at Age 15 (Apr 2017)
- Domaine Leroy: The 2014s from Bottle (Mar 2017)
- Cellar Favorite: 1989 Domaine G. Roumier Chambolle-Musigny Amoureuses 1er Cru (Mar 2017)
- 2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)
- Cellar Favorite: 1990 Domaine G. Roumier Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru (Feb 2017)
2016
- Marquis d’Angerville: Volnay Clos des Ducs 1920-2010 (Dec 2016)
- Cellar Favorite: 1978 Maison Leroy Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru (Oct 2016)
- Mâconnais: The Headspinning 2015s and The Classic 2014s (Oct 2016)
- The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)
- J. F. Coche-Dury & Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (Sep 2016)
- The 2015 White Burgundies: A Year of Sunshine (Sep 2016)
- Chablis Gets the Côte de Beaune Treatment from Mother Nature (Jul 2016)
- The Awful 2016 Spring in Chablis (Jul 2016)
- Domaine Rousseau Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin (Jun 2016)
- Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair: La Romanée 1865 – 2014 (Mar 2016)
- The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)
- Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival 2015 (Mar 2016)
- The Glorious 2002 Red Burgundies (Feb 2016)
- The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)
2015
- The Mâconnais on the Move (Dec 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: Checking in on the Lafon 2010s (Dec 2015)
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1982-2012 (Nov 2015)
- The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)
- Chablis: 2014 & 2013 (Aug 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: Three from Domaine Leflaive (Aug 2015)
- Lalou Bize-Leroy: Celebrating Sixty Years at Maison Leroy (May 2015)
- The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)
- The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2011 Échézeaux – Grand Cru (Mar 2015)
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Romanée-Conti and Montrachet (Feb 2015)
- The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)
2014
- Cellar Favorite: 1995 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes - Grand Cru (Dec 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: 2000 Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Bèze – Grand Cru (Dec 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: 2000 J.F. Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Dec 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaine G. Roumier 1978 Musigny – Grand Cru (Nov 2014)
- Vinous Table: Restaurant F and B, Beaune (Sep 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1988-2004 (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune (Sep 2014)
- 2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Hostellerie des Clos, Chablis (Aug 2014)
- 2013 Chablis: Living on the Edge (Aug 2014)
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Focus on Grands-Échézeaux and Richebourg (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Burgundy Charity Auction and Dinner (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Musique & Vin (Jul 2014)
- 1964 Leroy: Simply Timeless (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Le Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet (Jul 2014)
- An Update From Burgundy (Jul 2014)
- Chablis 2013 and 2012 (Jul 2014)
- 2010 Red Burgundy: Essays in Terroir (May 2014)
- 2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)
- 2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)
- 2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Jan 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: 1966 Maison Leroy Beaune (Jan 2015)
- 2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)
2013
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: An Essay in Terroir (Dec 2013)
- The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Sep 2013)
- 2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)
- Chablis 2012: Energy, Power and Class (Aug 2013)
- Vinous Table: Ma Cuisine, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)
- 2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Jun 2013)
- Jadot: Corton-Charlemagne 1973-1996 (Jun 2013)
- Jadot: Beaune Theurons 1970-1997 (Jun 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Domaine Meo-Camuzet's Vosne-Romanee aux Brulees (Mar 2013)
- 2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)
- 2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)
2012
- 2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)
- Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Aug 2012)
- Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)
- Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Jul 2012)
- The 2002 Burgundies at Eleven Madison Park (May 2012)
- The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)
- 2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)
- The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)
- 2010 Red Burgundies (Jan 2012)
2011
2010
2009
2008
2007
2006
2005
2004
2002
2000
1999