The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies
Two thousand fourteen is a delicious midweight vintage with alluring fruit, juicy supporting acidity, expressive terroir character, supple tannins and considerable early appeal. Best of all, the wines display an attractive natural balance and elegance, and should offer at least medium-term ageability. It’s a more consistent vintage in quality than 2013, even if, for this taster at least, the high points in 2013 are more compelling (I will publish a separate report on the 2013s in the coming weeks). If there’s an Achilles’ heel to the 2014 vintage, it is the generous crop levels on the Côte de Nuits: some wines are charming and appetizing but lack the intensity for greatness. And, of course, the Côte de Beaune, hit hard by hail in late June, is much more of a mixed bag, but here there are some very concentrated wines that merit buying and cellaring.
Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Vosne-Romanée
The 2014 Growing Season
Following an unusually warm, dry winter, the flowering in 2014 was very early and mostly successful, beginning in late May, with even the latest-flowering Pinot vines finishing by around June 12. Some of the first vines to flower were affected by windy conditions, which caused some millerandage (shot berries, or hens and chicks), and a few growers reported coulure (grape shatter). But after the favorable start came a widely destructive hailstorm on June 28, which was most damaging on the Côte de Beaune (especially in Beaune, Pommard and Volnay) but also had an impact as far north as Vosne-Romanée and Chambolle-Musigny. Another hailstorm on July 25 caused some damage farther north, especially in Marsannay.
Following the hailstorm, July and most of August brought mediocre weather, including recurrent rain and significantly fewer sunshine hours than average, so that the ripening process slowed dramatically. Some growers who thinned their vines after the hail to prevent against rot from the continuing showers saw their fruit affected by a sharp heat spike in mid-July. While most of the hail-affected grapes fell off the vines in the weeks after the storm, damage to the leaves delayed ripening in many parts of the Côte de Beaune. In some spots, the grape skins were swelled by rain, leaving them more vulnerable to botrytis later on.
This year many vineyards—as well as other fruit trees, particularly cherries—were affected by an outbreak of Drosophila suzukii (vinegar flies, which are associated with acid rot in the grapes). Where red grape skins were not sufficiently thick, the flies were able to penetrate the berries to lay their larvae, and acetic acid was often the result. The Drosophila suzukii were much more likely to be found in vineyards located near orchards, houses, walls and gardens, in flatter, more humid sites and in vineyards protected from wind. (These flies, incidentally, are primarily attracted to red fruits and thus were a not an issue for Chardonnay in Burgundy.) Grapes with thinner skins were more vulnerable to the flies; the most conscientious growers went into their vineyards in late August or early September to eliminate damaged fruit, with most of them maintaining that problem areas were easy to find as the afflicted vineyards smelled strongly of vinegar. Growers also carried out a strict selection in the winery to eliminate grapes beset by acid rot, but that was a little late in the process as the bad grapes could easily affect the good ones.
The road to Clos Vougeot
Harvest 2014
Happily, the weather took a miraculous turn for the better at the end of August, and the next month brought a mostly drier northeast breeze and warm weather, with the nights cool enough to allow the grapes to retain healthy levels of acidity. In contrast to the two previous months, September enjoyed significantly more sunshine hours than normal. Grape sugars began to move higher again as the ripening process picked up momentum. The majority of the growers I visited this fall on two tours in November and December began harvesting between September 13 and 16, with some starting a day or two earlier and others up to several days later. Most reported little or no problem with gray rot, which was a pleasant surprise as the summer had been so damp.
As the ripening process had been drawn out by the mediocre summer conditions, many vineyards benefited from slightly longer than average hang times, which contributed to phenolic ripeness. (The very late 2013 season displayed a similar phenomenon: ripening proceeded very slowly as the days grew shorter at the end of September.)
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Two thousand fourteen is a delicious midweight vintage with alluring fruit, juicy supporting acidity, expressive terroir character, supple tannins and considerable early appeal. Best of all, the wines display an attractive natural balance and elegance, and should offer at least medium-term ageability.
Show all the wines (sorted by score)
Producers in this Article
- Albert Bichot (Château Gris)
- Albert Bichot (Domaine du Clos Frantin)
- Benjamin Leroux
- Bouchard Père & Fils
- Camille Giroud
- Château de la Tour
- Christophe Roumier (Domaine Georges Roumier)
- Clos de Tart
- David Duband/François Feuillet
- Domaine Alain Burguet
- Domaine Albert Morot
- Domaine Anne Gros
- Domaine Arlaud
- Domaine Armand Rousseau
- Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux
- Domaine Berthaut
- Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur
- Domaine Bruno Clair
- Domaine Bruno Clavelier
- Domaine Cécile Tremblay
- Domaine Chandon de Briailles
- Domaine Charlopin-Parizot
- Domaine Claude Dugat
- Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
- Domaine Confuron-Cotétidot
- Domaine de Bellene
- Domaine de Courcel
- Domaine de la Pousse d'Or
- Domaine de l'Arlot
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
- Domaine de la Vougeraie
- Domaine de Montille
- Domaine Denis Bachelet
- Domaine Denis Mortet
- Domaine des Comtes Lafon
- Domaine des Epéneaux/Comte Armand
- Domaine des Lambrays
- Domaine d’Eugénie
- Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair
- Domaine Dugat-Py
- Domaine Dujac
- Domaine Duroché
- Domaine Emmanuel Rouget
- Domaine Faiveley
- Domaine Forey Père et Fils
- Domaine Fourrier/Jean-Marie Fourrier
- Domaine Frédéric Esmonin
- Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg
- Domaine Georges Noëllat
- Domaine Ghislaine-Barthod
- Domaine Henri Gouges
- Domaine Hubert Lignier/Hubert Lignier
- Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat
- Domaine Jacques Prieur
- Domaine Jayer-Gilles
- Domaine Jean Grivot
- Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron
- Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
- Domaine Jean-Marc & Hugues Pavelot
- Domaine Jean Tardy
- Domaine J-F Mugnier
- Domaine Joseph Roty
- Domaine Laurent Père & Fils
- Domaine Lécheneaut
- Domaine Lignier-Michelot
- Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils
- Domaine/Maison Henri Boillot
- Domaine/Maison Louis Jadot
- Domaine/Maison Vincent Girardin
- Domaine Marquis d'Angerville
- Domaine Maume Marchand-Tawse
- Domaine Méo-Camuzet/Méo-Camuzet Frère et Soeur
- Domaine Michel Lafarge
- Domaine Michel Magnien
- Domaine Nicolas Rossignol
- Domaine Perrot-Minot
- Domaine Pierre Labet
- Domaine Robert Chevillon
- Domaine Robert Groffier
- Domaine Rossignol-Trapet
- Domaine Sérafin Père & Fils
- Domaine Sylvain Cathiard & Fils
- Domaine Sylvie Esmonin
- Domaine Taupenot-Merme
- Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
- Domaine Tollot-Beaut
- Domaine Trapet
- Dujac Fils & Père
- Joseph Drouhin
- Lucien Le Moine
- Maison Dominique Laurent
- Maison Frédéric Magnien
- Maison Marchand-Tawse
- Maison Olivier Bernstein
- Maison Roche de Bellene
- Remoissenet Père & Fils
- Romain Taupenot
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2017
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2016
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2015
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- Chablis: 2014 & 2013 (Aug 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: Three from Domaine Leflaive (Aug 2015)
- Lalou Bize-Leroy: Celebrating Sixty Years at Maison Leroy (May 2015)
- The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)
- The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2011 Échézeaux – Grand Cru (Mar 2015)
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Romanée-Conti and Montrachet (Feb 2015)
- The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)
2014
- Cellar Favorite: 1995 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes - Grand Cru (Dec 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: 2000 Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Bèze – Grand Cru (Dec 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: 2000 J.F. Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Dec 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaine G. Roumier 1978 Musigny – Grand Cru (Nov 2014)
- Vinous Table: Restaurant F and B, Beaune (Sep 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1988-2004 (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune (Sep 2014)
- 2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Hostellerie des Clos, Chablis (Aug 2014)
- 2013 Chablis: Living on the Edge (Aug 2014)
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Focus on Grands-Échézeaux and Richebourg (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Burgundy Charity Auction and Dinner (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Musique & Vin (Jul 2014)
- 1964 Leroy: Simply Timeless (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Le Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet (Jul 2014)
- An Update From Burgundy (Jul 2014)
- Chablis 2013 and 2012 (Jul 2014)
- 2010 Red Burgundy: Essays in Terroir (May 2014)
- 2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)
- 2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)
- 2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Jan 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: 1966 Maison Leroy Beaune (Jan 2015)
- 2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)
2013
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: An Essay in Terroir (Dec 2013)
- The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Sep 2013)
- 2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)
- Chablis 2012: Energy, Power and Class (Aug 2013)
- Vinous Table: Ma Cuisine, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)
- 2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Jun 2013)
- Jadot: Beaune Theurons 1970-1997 (Jun 2013)
- Jadot: Corton-Charlemagne 1973-1996 (Jun 2013)
- 2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Domaine Meo-Camuzet's Vosne-Romanee aux Brulees (Mar 2013)
- 2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)
2012
- 2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)
- Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Aug 2012)
- Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)
- Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Jul 2012)
- The 2002 Burgundies at Eleven Madison Park (May 2012)
- The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)
- 2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)
- The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)
- 2010 Red Burgundies (Jan 2012)
2011
2010
2009
2008
2007
2006
2005
2004
2002
2000
1999