1979 Domaine
Jean-François Coche-Dury Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru

BY NEAL MARTIN | JULY 29, 2019Here is a bottle rarely seen, if not quite as
“unicorn” as the 2010 Bourgogne Blanc from Armand Rousseau that I reported on
earlier this year. It was actually served as a freshener before a Christophe
Roumier dinner – only in Hong Kong! The 1979 Perrières came with a Confrérie
des Chevaliers du Tastevin neck label, the organization having approved this
bottle back in 1981; the label perhaps provided a bit of extra marketing
leverage and third-party validation, since this was before the domaine gained
its global fame. Curiously, when I checked, there was no mention on the
organization’s website.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1564412343815-meursault+perrieres+1979+coche+dury+bottle.jpg"> 

The
1979 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru has a burnished golden hue commensurate
with its age. The bouquet is delightful, still fresh and well-defined,
featuring dried honey, pralines, white flowers and just a suggestion of tinned
apricot. Given the vintage, I am impressed by the stoniness of this Meursault,
which articulates the vineyard with clarity. The palate may be showing its age
and does not constitute the best Coche-Dury that I have tasted. Yet it is very
refined and elegant in style, offering admirable salinity and orange pith and
white peach toward the finish, plus a scintilla of nougat on the aftertaste.
The 1979 does not boast the intellectual capacity of the very best Coche-Dury
wines, but my word, it remains an absolute pleasure to drink! 93/Drink 2019-2030.

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