2022 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The Lightness of Being
BY ANTONIO GALLONI |
I admit I approached the 2022s from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti with some trepidation. Given reports of extreme, record-setting warm and dry weather, I feared a repeat of 2020, a year in which the wines were unusually dark and concentrated. Those concerns were quickly allayed as soon as I started tasting the 2022s. The wines are absolutely brilliant. Elegant and poised, the 2022s are not only captivating, but they also offer that most elusive of all qualities in fine wine: the ability to convey the essence of site.
The range of 2022s, followed by two library wines for additional
context
I tasted the 2022s with Co-Managers Perrine Fenal and Bertrand de Villaine at the annual tasting organized by longtime American importer Wilson Daniels, held this year at Le Bernardin. As is the custom, two library vintages were served after the tasting of the new vintage for further context. I have included notes on those bottles and a pair of additional wines I tasted recently. My only quibble with the tasting is that the wines were served too warm. Pre-pouring delicate wines in a warm dining room is a recipe for trouble. This is a mistake that quite simply can’t happen at this level. I apologize for being so direct, but these wines deserved better care.
I admit I approached the 2022s from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti with some trepidation. Given reports of extreme, record-setting warm and dry weather, I feared a repeat of 2020, a year in which the wines were unusually dark and concentrated. Those concerns were quickly allayed as soon as I started tasting the 2022s. The wines are absolutely brilliant. Elegant and poised, the 2022s are not only captivating, but they also offer that most elusive of all qualities in fine wine: the ability to convey the essence of site.
