Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016
BY NEAL MARTIN |
Imagine that Burgundy’s 635 premier and 33 grand crus were a sea of monopoles: one vineyard per owner, not unlike Bordeaux. It would make life much simpler. Tasting the new vintage from barrel would be a few laps around the track instead of an ultra-marathon without a finish line. Then again, you know as well as I do that this sacrilegious dumbing-down would deprive Burgundy of its natural ability to translate an intricate jigsaw puzzle of topography, soil and bedrock into a kaleidoscopic array of wines in our glass. Burgundy’s complexity might be frustrating, but it is an endless source of fascination, a cryptic crossword that you can imbibe and savor.
Of course, there are vineyards owned by a single producer, more than you might presuppose. There are eight grand cru monopoles within the Côte d’Or if we are pedantic and include Rousseau’s Clos des Ruchottes. Many would cite Romanée-Conti as the most famous. However, if somebody asked me to name an archetypal monopole, I would choose the largest, Clos de Tart. Unlike Romanée-Conti, the crown jewel within a portfolio, Clos de Tart stands alone insofar as there are no sibling vineyards elsewhere under the same ownership. Even the winery lies within the boundaries of the monopole, heightening self-containment and solipsism, as if Clos de Tart has always cut itself off from the outside world. Passersby can only speculate what is happening behind the seemingly impenetrable ochre façade that dominates the epicenter of Morey-Saint-Denis, its inner sanctum sealed away from prying eyes. To cap it all off, Clos de Tart is veiled in timelessness. It has existed as an immutable cornerstone within the Burgundy landscape since medieval times, its wine as popular in the time of the Knights Templar as in the time of Brexit.
Over the years, I have been fortunate to participate in three or four verticals of Clos de Tart. I’ve visited countless times, even dropped in during a family vacation with infant daughters in tow (evidence below). Yet I had never undertaken a comprehensive tasting that spans decades until Jordi Oriols-Gil organized a unique retrospective covering more than 50 years at Ten Trinity in London. Frédéric Engerer, responsible for François Pinault’s estates, flew over especially for the event, which was doubtless a learning experience for him as much as anyone else. To be honest, nobody knew quite what to expect in these uncharted waters. Ancient vintages are rarely seen and do not enjoy strong repute. The consensus is that winemaker Sylvain Pitiot brought long-overdue improvement, though even his wines stand accused by cognoscenti of being picked too late. What transpired was a tasting that overturned some of my preconceptions and forced me to look at Clos de Tart in a different way. It revealed monumental highs, head-scratching lows and everything in between.
History
Burgundy is steeped in history, yet few estates can match Clos de Tart. One must flick back the history pages almost an entire millennium to reach its formation, and throughout its life there has been remarkable continuity, with just four proprietors since the 12th century.
Clos de Tart was first recorded as “Climat de Forge” in 1141, when the winery, along with its leviathan pressoir à perroquet (parrot press) and vines, was sold to the sisters of Abbé de Tart-le-Haut in Genlis. The Bernadine nuns were part of the Cistercian brotherhood based in Cîteaux. Jasper Morris MW, writing in Inside Burgundy, states that the Knights Hospitaller de Brochon were the benevolent vendors, and as their name implies, the sale included additional land in Brochon just north of Gevrey.
The nuns augmented their initial five-hectare holding with acquisitions in 1240 and rebranded as Clos de Tart upon gaining the rights to harvest before, during or after the ban de vendanges. The aforementioned pressoir à perroquet remained operational from 1590 until 1924, by which time one assumes its warranty had expired. With all its ropes and pulleys, it is a remarkable piece of engineering that must have looked like something out of a Tolkien fantasy when operational. (According to Andrew Jefford, it is one of only three that remain. One is at Domaine Joseph Drouhin, but I could not discover the location of the other.) Eventually the sisters were relocated to Dijon by papal decree, an act that I’m sure they were not happy about. Alas, equal rights were not an ecclesiastical strong point back in those days.
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Over the years, I have been fortunate to participate in three or four verticals of Clos de Tart. Yet I had never undertaken a comprehensive tasting that spans decades until Jordi Oriols-Gil organized a unique retrospective covering more than 50 years at Ten Trinity in London.
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- The Mâconnais on the Move (Dec 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: Checking in on the Lafon 2010s (Dec 2015)
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1982-2012 (Nov 2015)
- The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)
- Chablis: 2014 & 2013 (Aug 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: Three from Domaine Leflaive (Aug 2015)
- Lalou Bize-Leroy: Celebrating Sixty Years at Maison Leroy (May 2015)
- The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)
- The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2011 Échézeaux – Grand Cru (Mar 2015)
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Romanée-Conti and Montrachet (Feb 2015)
- The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)
2014
- Cellar Favorite: 1995 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes - Grand Cru (Dec 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: 2000 Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Bèze – Grand Cru (Dec 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: 2000 J.F. Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Dec 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaine G. Roumier 1978 Musigny – Grand Cru (Nov 2014)
- Vinous Table: Restaurant F and B, Beaune (Sep 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1988-2004 (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune (Sep 2014)
- 2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)
- Vinous Table: Hostellerie des Clos, Chablis (Aug 2014)
- 2013 Chablis: Living on the Edge (Aug 2014)
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Focus on Grands-Échézeaux and Richebourg (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Burgundy Charity Auction and Dinner (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Musique & Vin (Jul 2014)
- 1964 Leroy: Simply Timeless (Jul 2014)
- Vinous Table: Le Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet (Jul 2014)
- An Update From Burgundy (Jul 2014)
- Chablis 2013 and 2012 (Jul 2014)
- 2010 Red Burgundy: Essays in Terroir (May 2014)
- 2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)
- 2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)
- 2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Jan 2014)
- Cellar Favorite: 1966 Maison Leroy Beaune (Jan 2015)
- 2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)
2013
- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: An Essay in Terroir (Dec 2013)
- The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Sep 2013)
- 2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)
- Chablis 2012: Energy, Power and Class (Aug 2013)
- Vinous Table: Ma Cuisine, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau, Beaune, France (Jul 2013)
- 2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)
- Vinous Table: Bistro de l’Hôtel, Beaune, France (Jun 2013)
- Jadot: Beaune Theurons 1970-1997 (Jun 2013)
- Jadot: Corton-Charlemagne 1973-1996 (Jun 2013)
- 2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)
- Vertical Tasting of Domaine Meo-Camuzet's Vosne-Romanee aux Brulees (Mar 2013)
- 2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)
2012
- 2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)
- Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)
- Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Aug 2012)
- Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Jul 2012)
- The 2002 Burgundies at Eleven Madison Park (May 2012)
- The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)
- 2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)
- The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)
- 2010 Red Burgundies (Jan 2012)
2011
2010
2009
2008
2007
2006
2005
2004
2002
2000
1999