Cellar Favorite: Breaking the Rules – La Chapelle Grange
BY NICOLAS GREINACHER AND ANGUS HUGHSON |
At the heart of the terroir narrative is the prime importance of a site and the concept that fine wine is a reflection of a singular place and vintage. As such, there has always been an elitist snobbery toward blends, vinous Frankensteins for some, that lack the breeding of wines from the finest lieux-dits. The smaller, the better. This has often been a barb thrown at the New World and so-called Vin de Pharmacie, the underlying old-fashioned thinking being that Old-World terroirs have the edge and it is only through blending that complexity can be built into wines from the New World, which is patently false. Occasionally, however, there are worthwhile attempts to circumvent these conventions in search of new wine expressions. In a rapidly changing world where many wine consumers demand novelty and adventure, these are valuable projects, not only to broaden the wine narrative but also in search of new synergies and opportunities. Arguably, there has been no more surprising collaboration than one hatched in 2019 between the Frey family at Domaine de La Chapelle in France and Penfolds in Australia to combine two linked yet diametrically opposed wine styles and classic terroirs with the aim of creating a new, groundbreaking Syrah.
The links between these wines are not as tenuous as one would expect. Penfolds Grange was originally labeled as Grange Hermitage with the inaugural 1951 vintage, reflecting Winemaker Max Schubert’s lofty aspirations for the wine. Some of the first Shiraz clones brought back to the country by James Busby in 1832 were from Hermitage, providing an important starting point for Australian Shiraz. Both Schubert’s intent and what he delivered were quite incredible for the time, considering there were very few truly fine Australian wines in production. It was a genuine moonshot. However, the impressive early vintages, particularly 1952 and 1953, set the benchmark high, and while there have been ups and downs, quality over seven decades has remained at a very high level. Arguably, Grange’s reputation has only been enhanced under the guidance of recent Chief Winemakers Peter Gago and John Duval immediately prior. The blend is always Shiraz-dominant and exclusively sourced from South Australia, with Cabernet Sauvignon usually making up less than 5% of the final wine. Grange is partially fermented and then matured in 100% new American oak.
From the other side of the equation, anyone who has tasted older vintages of Hermitage La Chapelle, such as the legendary 1961, 1978 or 1990, will agree that these wines have the potential to be breathtaking. At the same time, other vintages, like 2000 and 2002, clearly fell short of expectations. The Frey family’s acquisition of Domaines Paul Jaboulet Aîné in 2006, coupled with the expertise of Bordeaux oenologist Denis Dubourdieu, gradually introduced greater consistency in quality and gave rise to a more polished style of Hermitage. While some Frey-era vintages have been notably successful (such as 2015), others have been less impressive. For example, the 2021 Hermitage La Chapelle, while a respectable effort given the challenges of the vintage, ultimately lacked ripeness, body and complexity.
