Domaine Leroy: A Voyage Across the 2019s
BY ANTONIO GALLONI |
Lalou Bize-Leroy's 2019s are off the charts. Even in 2019, a year marked by several pronounced heat spikes, the wines capture tremendous expression of site. From the village wines all the way to the top Grand Crus, the 2019s are simply breathtaking for their grandeur and sheer personality.
A woman of extraordinary conviction, Lalou Bize-Leroy has the energy of someone half her age. There are no half measures, compromises or grey areas here. She will answer the standard questions about weather, yields and vinification, but her eyes really light up when it comes to any discussion of place, the single greatest driver of what makes Burgundy Burgundy.
Yields in 2019 were a paltry 15.4 hectoliters per hectare, tiny by any standard, even taking into account that dead vines are typically not replaced. As always, the wines are aged in 100% new oak. "I am not at all looking for oak influence, but rather to minimize risks by seeking maximum hygiene. We take such care in our vineyards to have beautiful grapes and low yields that it simply does not make sense to work with used barrels," she explains.
The hierarchy of sites is a fundamental concept. "It's a very good wine, yes, and there is more structure than the village wines, but it is a 1er Cru, obviously. It is Volnay,” Lalou (as she is known to everyone) says matter-of-factly of her Santenots. "The Charmes is a dancer, the Combottes is a peasant. I mean, take your pick, one can choose," she says with a wicked laugh, leaving no doubt whatsoever as to her preference. What can I say? I guess I have simple tastes.
Lalou Bize-Leroy's 2019s are off the charts. Even in 2019, a year marked by several pronounced heat spikes, the wines capture tremendous expression of site. From the village wines all the way to the top Grand Crus, the 2019s are simply breathtaking for their grandeur and sheer personality.