Four From Domaine
Raveneau

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | AUGUST 19, 2019I was inspired to write this article by my colleague Steve
Tanzer’s superb retrospective on <a target="_blank"></a><a target="_blank"></a><a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/domaine-raveneau-chablis-montee-de-tonnerre-1985-2015-aug-2019">Raveneau’s
Chablis Montée de Tonnerre</a> and my own
recent visit trip to Chablis earlier this summer. I have adored the Raveneau
wines for a very long time. I buy them whenever I can for my own cellar. Even
after I stopped formally reviewing Chablis at The Wine Advocate and
later Vinous, I still visited the region annually and stopped by Domaine
Raveneau to keep current with the wines. I bought these four bottles in various
locations during the week I spent in Chablis this past July. With one exception
(the 2008 Chapelot) I had the opportunity to follow the wines over several
days, which I found tremendously illuminating.

Last year, I opened a bottle of Raveneau’s <a target="_blank" href="https://vinous.com/articles/cellar-favorite-2010-domaine-francois-raveneau-chablis-blanchot-grand-cru-nov-2018">2010
Chablis Blanchot Grand Cru</a> for a dear friend. We drank most of it at lunch,
but, for some reason, a tiny bit of wine was left over. I put the bottle in the
fridge, after which I totally forgot about it for a few days. When I finally
realized my oversight, I was aghast at the thought of having let Grand Cru
Raveneau go bad. How wrong I was. The wine was spectacular! Still fresh, bright
and vibrant, the 2010 was far more delicious and enjoyable than it was upon
opening. It was a big lesson for me. With that in mind, I was not terribly
surprised to see the same happen with these bottles, excepting the Chapelot,
which as I mention below, was polished off rather quickly. Vinous readers
probably know I am not a huge proponent of decanting reds, except for the
purpose of removing sediment in older wines. That is still generally my view.
However, I find aeration – whether through decanting or opening in advance – to
be very beneficial for white wines, especially high-acid whites such as
Riesling and Chablis.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1566227865995-IMG_5011_copy.jpg"> 

Raveneau’s 2014 Chablis offers tremendous quality and
pedigree for a village-level wine. As is so often the case, the 2014 really
benefits from air, which allows all of its nuance to come through. Penetrating
notes of citrus, dried herb, almond and crushed flowers grace this exquisite,
vibrant Chablis. The 2014 conveys serious intensity at its level, with no
excess weight. 90/Drink: 2019-2024. The 2008 Chablis Chapelot 1er Cru
emerges from the lower slopes of Montée de Tonnerre, where the warmer
micro-climate results in a relatively open-knit Chablis that can be enjoyed
with minimal cellaring. In tasting, the 2008 is light on its feet and airy,
with soft curves that bring out the orchard fruit, citrus, mint and floral
flavors nicely. The 2008 Chapelot is not a truly epic Raveneau Chablis, but it
is very delicious. The Chapelot is the only wine in this article I did not
follow over a few days, as I ran into friends in a local restaurant, and ended
up sharing the bottle with them. I would prefer to drink the 2008 over the next
handful of years. 92/Drink: 2019-2026.<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1566227877906-IMG_4471_copy.jpg"> 

The older portion of the Raveneau cellars in the heart of
Chablis

The 2007 Chablis Blanchot Grand Cru is one of
the most intriguing Raveneau wines I have tasted in a very long time. Very
awkward at first, the 2007 was really only enjoyable after having been opened
for a few days. At first, the 2007 presented a strong contrast between the
natural richness of a Chablis with a good bit of bottle age and the natural
freshness of the cool year. The wine was disjointed, and there was really no
pleasure to be had at first. And then the Blanchot suddenly blossomed a day
after having been opened. Those initially angular edges had softened, and the
wine was simply exquisite, with tremendous&nbsp;polish and refinement.&nbsp;94/Drink: 2019-2029. There is nothing awkward at all&nbsp;about the 2004 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru, which is
mind-blowingly beautiful from the moment it is served. Vibrant and bursting
with life, the 2004 possesses dazzling intensity from start to finish.
Tangerine oil, lemon confit, wild flowers and slate are some of the signatures,
but more than anything else, the 2004 stands out for its exquisite beauty and
overall harmony. A rush of floral and mineral notes leaves a long and
lasting&nbsp; impression on the close. At
fifteen years of age, the 2004 is in the sweet spot for delivering pure
pleasure, but it will drink well for many years to come. What a wine! 95/Drink:
2019-2029.

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