Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites

BY NEAL MARTIN | JULY 09, 2024

Once more, unto the breach, we go. Glutton for punishment that I am, it was time to head back to Savigny-lès-Beaune, drive up the long meandering lane through dense woodland patrolled by wild boar until I reached the isolated converted farmhouse, Hameau de Barbaron. Once here, I left my ego at the door, tied on my metaphorical blindfold and tasted 226 white Burgundy wines that, this year, were the 2020 intake.

The tasting takes place in a converted outbuilding on the farm, away from any distractions. This was taken between flights as wines, which are double decanted, are poured.

It bears repeating that this five-day tasting is easily the most educational of the year. I often think such a test should be compulsory for any professional critic, irrespective of experience. The amount learned by listening to fellow participants, understanding their perspective and discovering what might evade your own senses is an invaluable tool, to wit, an exercise in self-improvement. This annual tasting was incepted many years ago under the auspice of the late Clive Coates MW. It was less formal in its early days, though the format has settled and been maintained over the last decade. This group of experienced palates comprises predominantly of the UK’s major Burgundy buyers dotted with a couple of scribes. Members do not change, abiding by the rule that the seat is yours unless you resign or die. Thankfully, unlike “Southwold,” Burgfest has only seen resignations, graciously making way for younger blood and, long overdue, women. Bottles are donated by participating domaines; Premier and Grand Crus only due to time limitations. Flights are arranged per climat with more or less one appellation broached each day. What I particularly like about this tasting is the pace. We take our time, sufficient to re-taste and comprehend Burgundy’s mercurial nature. Crucially, it allows intra-group debate about the wines before they are revealed to customary oohs and aahs.

It is a comparative exercise taken to its zenith. Ceteris paribus, variations between wines within flights are influenced by natural differences in terms of terroirs (soil type, altitude, orientation, vine age, rootstock) and human differences (pruning method, canopy management, hours spent in the vineyard etc). One must not overlook the imprint of important decisions: date of picking, sorting, whole bunch addition, alcoholic fermentation and élevage. Given this array of influencing factors, it is remarkable how flights can taste like variations on a theme and therein lies our fascination with Burgundy.

This year, I have decided to split the report into white and red, the latter penciled in for early September as usual. This is partly because I am slammed with the marathon of domaine visits later, and it relieves some of the pressure both for myself and the editorial team towards the end of the year.

Readers should click here for a summary of the 2020 growing season. So, without further ado, let’s talk about the wines…

The Wines