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Clos Saint-Jean

I met with Vincent Maurel and nephew, Valentin Maurel. After Vincent and his brother, Pascal Maurel, took over the 48-hectare family estate in 2002, their collaboration with the late consultant Philippe Cambie quickly elevated Clos Saint-Jean to the top tier of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. Since then, the house style has remained voluptuous and expressive—sometimes even flamboyant or eccentric. These wines are all about sexy fruit, marked intensity and richness. They are neither intellectual nor difficult to understand. Instead, they're accessible, transparent and, most importantly, easily likable. Clos Saint-Jean is one of the most consistent producers in the appellation, delivering outstanding results even in more challenging vintage conditions, like in 2008, 2014 or 2021. Though Clos Saint-Jean often cited as too powerful and concentrated for elegance-seeking palates, one must admire the quality Clos Saint-Jean has maintained since the Maurel brothers took over more than 20 years ago. The entry-level Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a reliable purchase and a great introduction to the Clos Saint-Jean style, usually blending 75% Grenache (raised entirely in concrete), 15% Syrah (aged in old oak barriques) and the remainder divided between Cinsaut, Muscardin and Vaccarèse (also raised in concrete) as well as Mourvèdre (raised in old oak barriques). While the unfinished 2023 vintage is shaping up well, I encourage readers to seek out the stunning 2022.

Next up is the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes, a wine produced exclusively for the U.S. market. The primary difference is that the Grenache in this cuvée comes from older vines planted in 1905. Both the entry-level Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the Vieilles Vignes are often of comparable quality (as in 2022), though occasionally, the Vieilles Vignes has a slight edge (as in 2021). What really brought Clos Saint-Jean fame are their three top cuvées: La Combe des Fous, Deus Ex Machina and Sanctus Sanctorum. It's important to highlight the key differences between these, especially regarding the use of new oak. La Combe des Fous blends 60% concrete-raised Grenache with 20% Cinsaut and Vaccarèse (aged in large foudres) and 20% Syrah raised in new oak barriques. Deus Ex Machina shares the same Grenache base, but replaces the other varieties with 40% Mourvèdre, also raised in new oak barriques. Finally, Sanctus Sanctorum is a varietal Grenache, aged entirely in new oak demi-muids. I often find La Combe des Fous to be rounder and more elegant, while Deus Ex Machina tends to be more muscular and richer. In certain vintages, like 2019, La Combe des Fous comes out on top, whereas in 2021, Deus Ex Machina leads the pack. In 2020 and 2022, both wines are of equal quality but with distinct stylistic differences, which can be traced back to their varietal composition. The hedonistic, velvety Sanctus Sanctorum plays in a league of its own, often earning the highest rank among the three cuvées. Although I prefer to enjoy these wines within the first ten years of their lives, to indulge in their voluptuous complexity, they can also age well. This is supremely evident in the delicious 2010 Deus Ex Machina, which has yet to reach its prime drinking window. In addition to the reds, readers should not overlook Clos Saint-Jean's delightful white Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

From Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Alluring 2023s and Benchmark 2010s (Nov 2024) by Nicolas Greinacher

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2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc

Color: White

2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc

2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus Ex Machina

2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Combe des Fous

2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sanctus Sanctorum

2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus Ex Machina

2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Combe des Fous

2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sanctus Sanctorum

2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus Ex Machina

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