1982 &amp;
2001 Haut-Bages Libéral

The
1982 vintage in Bordeaux was a pivotal moment for Bordeaux—the touchpaper that
moved the region into the modern age. The only caveat is that, contrary to
popular opinion, not every wine was the bee’s knees (what a lovely expression
that is). As I have written multiple times in the past, quality was not evenly
distributed across all levels of the hierarchy, or even amongst all Grand Cru
Classés.The 1982
Haut-Bages Libéral is one of the good ones, even at 42 years old.
Proprietor Claire Villars-Lurton poured a bottle when I recently visited the
Pauillac estate. She told me that this was the first vintage made by her
mother, Bernadette Merlaut, after her grandfather had acquired the Pauillac
estate that autumn, so understandably, Villars-Lurton has a strong sentimental
attachment to the wine. This bottle showed much better than a couple of&nbsp;bottles
I tasted over a decade earlier. Now displaying modest bricking on the rim, the
bouquet is fully mature with vestiges of red fruit commingling with red brick
and light brown leafy scents. There is real presence and cohesion, though it’s decidedly
“old school” in style, with just a touch of algae. The palate follows in a&nbsp;similar
fashion. It’s a little rustic yet harmonious, with fine tannins and decent
weight, revealing light tobacco notes mixed with desiccated orange peel. It is
drinking beautifully now and will appeal to those who mourn the loss of
traditional claret. That said, I would not leave bottles too much longer. 92/Drink
2024-2032.A
second bottle was also poured on this occasion. The 2001 Haut-Bages Libéral
is a lucid garnet color and shows little aging. Quite generous on the nose, it
offers tobacco-laced red berry fruit, pencil shavings and enticing estuarine
scents of fine delineation. The palate has commendable concentration, a lovely
sweet core of blackberry and bilberry fruit and a lively, pure finish that
suggests it might benefit from another couple of years in bottle. 91/Drink
2025-2036.

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