Cellar Favorite: 2022 Yquem

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 10, 2025

Head Winemaker
Lorenzo Pasquini flew to the UK to present the latest vintage of Château Yquem.
Meeting in central London, Italian-born Pasquini gave me the background on the
2022.

“Two thousand
twenty-two is an extraordinary vintage in the sense that plenty of things happened
that were out of the ordinary,” he began. “First of all, it was the driest and
hottest vintage ever at the estate. Secondly, it was the year of wildfires. The
fires didn’t touch the vineyard or the estate, but they did touch [the homes]
of some employees. The hot weather led to a very early ripening and a very
early picking for Ygrec that started on August 9, the earliest ever. It was
important to preserve the natural freshness.”

Pasquini
continues, “For Yquem, the grapes were uniformly ripe very early. That is the
first condition for noble rot infection. By the end of August, we felt that all
we needed was a bit of rain and then we could look forward to a September vintage
like 1893, 2003 and 2011. However, September stayed very dry and so all we did
was harvest some passerillé (dried) berries. Botrytis began to form in
the beginning of October, but it was humid and cold rather than humid with sun
and wind. Consequently, infection tended toward grey rot, not noble. Believe it
or not, the sugar began to lower as the botrytis began to eat it.”

He
adds, “Everything changed on the weekend of October 15, when we had a strong
southeast wind that dried the vines. At the same time, higher temperatures
settled in. On October 18, it reached 34°C, the highest temperature for October
at the estate. We had to radically change our approach and pick as fast as
possible, since berries concentrated very quickly. We picked from October 16-22.
By October 24, the fruit was too concentrated. We ended up with the most
concentrated Yquem since 1945, which had 164 g/L residual sugar compared to 160
g/L in 2022. Another challenge was that given the level of concentration and low
acidity, it was harder to maintain balance, because that derives as much from bitterness
or saltiness as it does from sweetness. So, we chose a blend that could maintain
the sensation of freshness. Since 2010, we have reduced the élevage from 36
months to 24 months while also reducing the number of rackings, which we
believe lends Yquem more crispness and clarity. Studies at the University of
Bordeaux have proven how lactones of the barrel and wine combine. We still
produce half-bottles when ordered en primeur, and these are now sealed
under Diam.”

<img alt="" src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1741615470063-CF_Mar102025.jpg">The
2022 Yquem is a blend of 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc with 160 g/L
residual sugar and a total acidity of 5.39 g/L. It is the first certified
organic vintage for the estate and has the lowest level of total sulphur ever:
234 g/L, high within the sphere of wine but comparatively low for Sauternes. The
2022 was aged for 24 months in new barrels that underwent slightly less drying
than those used for red wines in order to retain some green tannins. Given the
growing season, the 2022 Yquem has a surprisingly understated bouquet that
demands coaxing. Scents of orange pith, passion fruit and quince are
exquisitely defined, a hint of chamomile dancing around in the background. The
palate is medium-bodied. Given the high level of residual sugar, what is
surprising is that the 2022 does not seem a weighty or texturally unctuous
Yquem, yet there is an intensity and concentration that is arresting. Vivid flavours
of clementine, wild honey, quince and tangerine that effortlessly combine. The acidity
almost nonchalantly counters the sensation of residual sugar, so it feels less
than it actually is, the scintilla of salinity toward the finish tempting you
back for more. This is a marvellous and quite cerebral Yquem for which patience
is required. 98/100 Drink 2030-2100. © 2025, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism.

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